tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33383962469777115112023-11-16T20:01:32.848+01:00.Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.comBlogger203125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-2406203005579105122020-08-28T18:03:00.001+02:002020-08-28T18:08:49.076+02:00Chile, el confinamiento del coronavirus.<p> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos a Chile el 10 de marzo después de pasar las
Navidades en España, como teníamos programado. Todavía no se había decretado el
estado de alarma y nos creímos lo que decía el gobierno. Nada más llegar a
Chile cerraron fronteras y decidimos <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>quedarnos donde teníamos el camión en Arica,
al norte del país.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOku7RrYiZ3FWSM6a1s1mhcuEfVp-0udtO2KajMKIJdPfa0m914HViUH2RvtHGviiiqztrqreqB3-djHF3b5n98kwa_94CMldaMA8ZYBXfU_gwtGmVsF5kDM4cairiEFgMC9kKqvXXwHY/s1024/1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOku7RrYiZ3FWSM6a1s1mhcuEfVp-0udtO2KajMKIJdPfa0m914HViUH2RvtHGviiiqztrqreqB3-djHF3b5n98kwa_94CMldaMA8ZYBXfU_gwtGmVsF5kDM4cairiEFgMC9kKqvXXwHY/s640/1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Arica nos pareció un buen lugar, pues es una pequeña ciudad de
unos 100.000 habitantes, con buenos servicios, junto al mar, con un clima ideal
de<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>eterna primavera. Y todo ello rodeado
por el inhóspito y extenso desierto de Atacama.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg81_CId6arzUZnTKfYe3p9KVrSc4PYpxpaCchOS-V4f7LcgFeDU5rjQA0sOq8wZoIBrukK2FaJVrOo9sYqnXWMZzbQ5utigOzi3uIxv81EbI2Mo1KyAaO1WoYlKwSQxLs78_1uWZXgrI/s1024/2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg81_CId6arzUZnTKfYe3p9KVrSc4PYpxpaCchOS-V4f7LcgFeDU5rjQA0sOq8wZoIBrukK2FaJVrOo9sYqnXWMZzbQ5utigOzi3uIxv81EbI2Mo1KyAaO1WoYlKwSQxLs78_1uWZXgrI/s640/2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4qjzdZi2b2s2VJ9aAoFZmel83-FMv1IllKUVQtzXOS3EzNcGGDTNJW_sFiA2DkMQbS0TvYTyZDGYHtWKjA4Tb-4sptBdhKMxsI798KNEYynpFmvSmOPTdsqzdEWrAYhf2u_7GpwbOHE0/s1024/3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4qjzdZi2b2s2VJ9aAoFZmel83-FMv1IllKUVQtzXOS3EzNcGGDTNJW_sFiA2DkMQbS0TvYTyZDGYHtWKjA4Tb-4sptBdhKMxsI798KNEYynpFmvSmOPTdsqzdEWrAYhf2u_7GpwbOHE0/s640/3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Además, teníamos la suerte de contar con la inestimable ayuda
que nos volvió a ofrecer Javier para quedarnos acampados en la parcela de su
propiedad.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunvaljV8Z78G3YrglF_QjlC-MRgCECwuN5UsupGOHyX5bBSNlybV_SFbhauFnIFFGJNFSe_2rnb61Dl_mc79bnRxiJPc5QqmvhOlPgI639thxouqCAetZU64l_vBt_gaNpRS5fftHPwI/s1024/4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiunvaljV8Z78G3YrglF_QjlC-MRgCECwuN5UsupGOHyX5bBSNlybV_SFbhauFnIFFGJNFSe_2rnb61Dl_mc79bnRxiJPc5QqmvhOlPgI639thxouqCAetZU64l_vBt_gaNpRS5fftHPwI/s640/4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVAmppapnriSOKQNEs_3YwTARekEJ1410pLmYiRv0WFP2IgHxpkheAtUHWyzAO4tvDcNyZ_5NjfKkcHqGdBfLCiRVOs1WSmhduexE9vSXXd1Vdx-j9Log9RP4zjSoLX7bIOdgdibZpa4/s1024/5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVAmppapnriSOKQNEs_3YwTARekEJ1410pLmYiRv0WFP2IgHxpkheAtUHWyzAO4tvDcNyZ_5NjfKkcHqGdBfLCiRVOs1WSmhduexE9vSXXd1Vdx-j9Log9RP4zjSoLX7bIOdgdibZpa4/s640/5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí todavía no se había extendido la enfermedad y sabiendo
que más tarde llegaría y nos tendríamos que confinar, decidimos aprovechar para
conocer un poco más la región. Nos dirigimos hacia el norte por la carretera
que lleva a Bolivia.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0V8Ixhd80dNHlW_U9lOhYaDYvFY9LFxnvTdE5D_BqMH6Rmqh8Wlrd77xQDAb44JUVuvr1j2YXxrgL1skrp-__QV6jlL1DdC4wAqvrmkRcuUh88UZ94FfTkSyVF5YpkYXrtI5PVOa1rEI/s1024/6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0V8Ixhd80dNHlW_U9lOhYaDYvFY9LFxnvTdE5D_BqMH6Rmqh8Wlrd77xQDAb44JUVuvr1j2YXxrgL1skrp-__QV6jlL1DdC4wAqvrmkRcuUh88UZ94FfTkSyVF5YpkYXrtI5PVOa1rEI/s640/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-XBCBaIKLabRv6_G-w8jo6Ab44BRKT6jWla3aJReDDd-TBACfsHRcNxK9Q4TMC3XMMTOBXanROlGqHLweVWPh8CoJOKc47snPHHH9hyphenhyphen8mk67G9iBpmpMrMj5vmysqhEJ4estHtdavVk/s1024/7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD-XBCBaIKLabRv6_G-w8jo6Ab44BRKT6jWla3aJReDDd-TBACfsHRcNxK9Q4TMC3XMMTOBXanROlGqHLweVWPh8CoJOKc47snPHHH9hyphenhyphen8mk67G9iBpmpMrMj5vmysqhEJ4estHtdavVk/s640/7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta vía discurre paralela al río LLuta, que crea un sinuoso
manto verde, flanqueado por enormes montañas de arena.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwQ73jTweJnMLtNGjCntcVqGgSNvZTq7q4bk_cBKuWJNFiqunZVKgxtz_Q6VisuvY-T9UmfIrhLt6Sa1qXbeMDmUu16UDbg2dLb_2W3al_WvMUoWorLAFOvsjPQ7v1hN2voEzXoDUXAk/s1024/8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwQ73jTweJnMLtNGjCntcVqGgSNvZTq7q4bk_cBKuWJNFiqunZVKgxtz_Q6VisuvY-T9UmfIrhLt6Sa1qXbeMDmUu16UDbg2dLb_2W3al_WvMUoWorLAFOvsjPQ7v1hN2voEzXoDUXAk/s640/8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjTzC4TbvAYoPkUlKeQ3ilYFkUgYmw7KR5n34DLfgtAKBHWqTIeLaSIGOgHBGPQSV-OHNbImIKDtmh2EWOpxX9Y9vLorX4ka4Vs9OiTA9Hq-QCXch3gPYuLZ9sGQL_QpMemfNeS5FMy0/s1024/9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjTzC4TbvAYoPkUlKeQ3ilYFkUgYmw7KR5n34DLfgtAKBHWqTIeLaSIGOgHBGPQSV-OHNbImIKDtmh2EWOpxX9Y9vLorX4ka4Vs9OiTA9Hq-QCXch3gPYuLZ9sGQL_QpMemfNeS5FMy0/s640/9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpocMTqg1XDnLJLE4sjqgbdgB_YzHqXoQHg4-q-c3Xa_s6NLVZRxghDXYLA6Z2Ucopcil7geVwJrykwqwpR3QPAckL1k9o5EsHaVjcpL_0PugvxflXXWmy4CRtRewsH_9dWtDGtfC3xU/s1024/10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpocMTqg1XDnLJLE4sjqgbdgB_YzHqXoQHg4-q-c3Xa_s6NLVZRxghDXYLA6Z2Ucopcil7geVwJrykwqwpR3QPAckL1k9o5EsHaVjcpL_0PugvxflXXWmy4CRtRewsH_9dWtDGtfC3xU/s640/10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Uno de los principales peligros para los viajeros está en la
carretera y esta ruta de montaña, transitada especialmente por los grandes
camiones que desde Bolivia se dirigen al puerto de Arica, da muestra de ello.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Z_lZVwooZk_KXqzEEpnyTFrIrvpF4HLZZfRJuR59__wlqqDVCEXW2ZozfGF3nW-MSRSwVAFTBpY3N7hi1Fj7B0he_7_zWFCmCTGocv1zbusi28qqDCZ8zEhbfKQB5DcvnVzhxORlnEc/s1024/11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Z_lZVwooZk_KXqzEEpnyTFrIrvpF4HLZZfRJuR59__wlqqDVCEXW2ZozfGF3nW-MSRSwVAFTBpY3N7hi1Fj7B0he_7_zWFCmCTGocv1zbusi28qqDCZ8zEhbfKQB5DcvnVzhxORlnEc/s640/11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Siempre subiendo este largo puerto desde que dejamos la costa
y después de<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>94 kilómetros, llegamos a
la aldea de Copaquilla a 2800 m. de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSdn3f1WGc2ixRPdNAw4MuiBTK0suJmreeuQqiTLIt38hoRcsAIw9JJ07VCy4YWbQCQRKrm-HQqKXQEyBnBa6JuVsXF4IZ2DmtdGu6Cwvb_MHMMsy1bWREgbdliJG6sqb094sv3q2i_s/s1024/12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSdn3f1WGc2ixRPdNAw4MuiBTK0suJmreeuQqiTLIt38hoRcsAIw9JJ07VCy4YWbQCQRKrm-HQqKXQEyBnBa6JuVsXF4IZ2DmtdGu6Cwvb_MHMMsy1bWREgbdliJG6sqb094sv3q2i_s/s640/12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Un remoto lugar donde será difícil que llegue el virus a
contaminar a las dos únicas familias que viven aquí. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ySD912vhUz9JswhkdF3L2sgHxRTKIAYgz-fCHAPDTw57g8zlU5qKugeG5baeP-nNRMwZQ4oSRLf6OUVcxKfldB_R3rmJzLv32rR-KWfJo6VpGs_UlZ0j8HE4MqxT0LWSQrpH50kkfFo/s1024/13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ySD912vhUz9JswhkdF3L2sgHxRTKIAYgz-fCHAPDTw57g8zlU5qKugeG5baeP-nNRMwZQ4oSRLf6OUVcxKfldB_R3rmJzLv32rR-KWfJo6VpGs_UlZ0j8HE4MqxT0LWSQrpH50kkfFo/s640/13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Pasamos unos días haciendo senderismo por rutas no marcadas
que nosotros descubríamos al andar todos los días.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGyo-UDExOZw95L8pjuv_c3LRx-Hph27s3YNTAzIJYhaQDFxmnxDmQAYlYm53ApIYcKSj7ei0uj8fgFGKNKM-cjNPZfUkK7avspqxCIigW4c98LVBxh6MB92DVopgVfT7pBO3CXpZbwc/s1024/14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheGyo-UDExOZw95L8pjuv_c3LRx-Hph27s3YNTAzIJYhaQDFxmnxDmQAYlYm53ApIYcKSj7ei0uj8fgFGKNKM-cjNPZfUkK7avspqxCIigW4c98LVBxh6MB92DVopgVfT7pBO3CXpZbwc/s640/14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqs3xJepFUD6z5cmK3ovFbt0_4gp43jfyExU7qW5ihYoBo1an9ZPyb-kkLwCGAy99eKcWHfZ0k2_n1lurwb-8GQ8Aj-x2mGo48XWcAKEhg-IPVmtZk8CG0VyZP_eyujiGbMnAdDdBk80U/s1024/15.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="629" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqs3xJepFUD6z5cmK3ovFbt0_4gp43jfyExU7qW5ihYoBo1an9ZPyb-kkLwCGAy99eKcWHfZ0k2_n1lurwb-8GQ8Aj-x2mGo48XWcAKEhg-IPVmtZk8CG0VyZP_eyujiGbMnAdDdBk80U/s640/15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvg9lU9uTHytHkYE7rrA7NfKo57aGjXuG7ehsEQ40ZLf6T-usEYem434virj1TpNi9Sr55uaOMqkjWcypqqaICC9liXwEEHlJjN7eCIwtrDUWalD-Q1_Ku5BrA2uZY_VoSqDzqv1m9TRE/s1024/16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvg9lU9uTHytHkYE7rrA7NfKo57aGjXuG7ehsEQ40ZLf6T-usEYem434virj1TpNi9Sr55uaOMqkjWcypqqaICC9liXwEEHlJjN7eCIwtrDUWalD-Q1_Ku5BrA2uZY_VoSqDzqv1m9TRE/s640/16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0s_x8K1hqhOw6GX0xX56AkCC29XiLZmhLox5ZNH9zfS69FbTKKiFoFcL5CBCkRnV1BlmZHnjAr5g4vcKYWMoufgTOcfKGk8qTUG7D9Crj3XYgO2SLSCfycqrp6fC81RHp-21VOW1lzw/s1024/17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0s_x8K1hqhOw6GX0xX56AkCC29XiLZmhLox5ZNH9zfS69FbTKKiFoFcL5CBCkRnV1BlmZHnjAr5g4vcKYWMoufgTOcfKGk8qTUG7D9Crj3XYgO2SLSCfycqrp6fC81RHp-21VOW1lzw/s640/17.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Muy cerca de la aldea, recorrimos las ruinas del Pukara de
Copaquilla.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ENuUfnHjXVB0fjk6p2uEBpAnbq7QYd_-tdDj6GFQGuYMltgfiKOlg8BUFaJY_hRjVjK1cMMkh2j3INCYSff4m-8zMJHk9zHOO7MHzdOgPQ6rLGauqR4obMS7BS1hNo8n02yAe1ZNA04/s1024/18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="566" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ENuUfnHjXVB0fjk6p2uEBpAnbq7QYd_-tdDj6GFQGuYMltgfiKOlg8BUFaJY_hRjVjK1cMMkh2j3INCYSff4m-8zMJHk9zHOO7MHzdOgPQ6rLGauqR4obMS7BS1hNo8n02yAe1ZNA04/s640/18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Un Pukara es un recinto amurallado. Este en su interior
alberga unos 400 espacios con muros circulares, data del siglo XII y<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>se alza en unos terrenos predominantes
rodeado de enormes acantilados.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LEKkcNkxbH6QRdMhD7VIujiTEosDi21nJiEfBs9pPvvH-sYUyP7vECCwQK9yBCR48W5xR9EAAhbpIDWceX49kKZTG5HeAPK6F6L-bTguuz_8rVqARjyzpmR0E4LMe829onMU4qjXrZg/s1024/19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LEKkcNkxbH6QRdMhD7VIujiTEosDi21nJiEfBs9pPvvH-sYUyP7vECCwQK9yBCR48W5xR9EAAhbpIDWceX49kKZTG5HeAPK6F6L-bTguuz_8rVqARjyzpmR0E4LMe829onMU4qjXrZg/s640/19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KKS8fHBzKpEUiEexMT_AONKj7INog0ymLl5jClrjZ8szB0t2dwYBIUKweevOWwH5epzMRtMzNieelbrsTTAvMcZdoWxTGUozQEimb5rrf74DZzCbhNK0yatqPBWCW-kAemffrs8HRMw/s1024/20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KKS8fHBzKpEUiEexMT_AONKj7INog0ymLl5jClrjZ8szB0t2dwYBIUKweevOWwH5epzMRtMzNieelbrsTTAvMcZdoWxTGUozQEimb5rrf74DZzCbhNK0yatqPBWCW-kAemffrs8HRMw/s640/20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos hacia el norte, nuestro destino es el parque
nacional Lauca, donde está el lago Chugará, próximo a la frontera con Bolivia.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uxEVpuM4khORtPB5T5q3jRJ2oU4I1JyoZF9jiWxOwqR2WoP0uuSLBcMmRx-FQbjVPnUdv2R8-fR455YzjBWtAHgKoC4A1Tc1IFrnKsOHcxxhu9z1R_Ot5ZnoPnsATxcPm1sJx6WC3uw/s1024/21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="487" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5uxEVpuM4khORtPB5T5q3jRJ2oU4I1JyoZF9jiWxOwqR2WoP0uuSLBcMmRx-FQbjVPnUdv2R8-fR455YzjBWtAHgKoC4A1Tc1IFrnKsOHcxxhu9z1R_Ot5ZnoPnsATxcPm1sJx6WC3uw/s640/21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero antes de llegar en el Paradero de Zapahuira, rozando los
3.400 m. de altitud, nos paran en un control sanitario y nos prohíben seguir
avanzando.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0xI3Pe_V9xFrckWG-ihVPMmf7kCxnJRgYG89nW-kY1F0YdUR65xo2Sd8-R1ClnYEOlkNM3AcdWES3eibN9Qq2jqfdhQTOcX7BtjPP__PxfMUHX2MC3wlkKTpUJEeJhm74svOzTf2GXs/s1024/22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0xI3Pe_V9xFrckWG-ihVPMmf7kCxnJRgYG89nW-kY1F0YdUR65xo2Sd8-R1ClnYEOlkNM3AcdWES3eibN9Qq2jqfdhQTOcX7BtjPP__PxfMUHX2MC3wlkKTpUJEeJhm74svOzTf2GXs/s640/22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue una pena no poder disfrutar unos días de este parque y
solo pudimos contemplar en la lejanía el impresionante volcán Taapaca de 5.775
metros.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-ek1-8Pr1OXzfwkewaLtUIPbgmHTuAXdhwmVcDfHSFkukQZgv7WmpxJ7PzFuKLc2hnzzMF76PWf-cywDSqLctp_Cifby1n1MHSdopoNOx4n8ld7jCetBMnHtvQUEDZF_pGL3dTXpnWE/s1024/23.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-ek1-8Pr1OXzfwkewaLtUIPbgmHTuAXdhwmVcDfHSFkukQZgv7WmpxJ7PzFuKLc2hnzzMF76PWf-cywDSqLctp_Cifby1n1MHSdopoNOx4n8ld7jCetBMnHtvQUEDZF_pGL3dTXpnWE/s640/23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Hacemos el camino de vuelta, haciendo varias noches en estos
solitarios parajes. Por aquí se dan las condiciones para que crezca este
peculiar cactus conocido como candelabro.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4sYp-mKTtgjQ0wN066p53rxBexHOV1Lp0ZZrb9E2IlfcENMerLilRL9skX-nacHTRQt3vAFzXlhB4NowjzYpawvFf_Hs9WOUI9gZRlajqIXFVXT6qUdwBrWJBUefDZjPb5YZBkQhQmc/s1024/24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC4sYp-mKTtgjQ0wN066p53rxBexHOV1Lp0ZZrb9E2IlfcENMerLilRL9skX-nacHTRQt3vAFzXlhB4NowjzYpawvFf_Hs9WOUI9gZRlajqIXFVXT6qUdwBrWJBUefDZjPb5YZBkQhQmc/s640/24.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvv7oAEGQEDih5bUCVJ5uCOCy_gRVfsLm84bMmPH1eVFy3nr_S_l-GNLNfzHsT4leBFff1ElGv2BbsEnI-8AJYEWvntZQ-L_Rv57Hja-w2097epKx6Y_Y_LttRYhs_2DZg9DWK3CzdV0/s1024/25.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvv7oAEGQEDih5bUCVJ5uCOCy_gRVfsLm84bMmPH1eVFy3nr_S_l-GNLNfzHsT4leBFff1ElGv2BbsEnI-8AJYEWvntZQ-L_Rv57Hja-w2097epKx6Y_Y_LttRYhs_2DZg9DWK3CzdV0/s640/25.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Conforme descendemos de las montañas, desaparece la vegetación
y vuelve el desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGEYBnowpigXZE0OdcAVv-Fme05N4RXO96qr2q5g7IsCn8stIwb5yu9KhDX17Z5fL1n4r1lm-jPTQ7azhfWYlGN09omBRpIx-iN0lrcLkXUMl8MN86WbPPMfoTFhO0QrLAkAfbH8TcA0/s1024/26.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGEYBnowpigXZE0OdcAVv-Fme05N4RXO96qr2q5g7IsCn8stIwb5yu9KhDX17Z5fL1n4r1lm-jPTQ7azhfWYlGN09omBRpIx-iN0lrcLkXUMl8MN86WbPPMfoTFhO0QrLAkAfbH8TcA0/s640/26.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuando llegamos a Arica han empezado a imponer medidas
sanitarias aunque todavía sin cuarentena. Decidimos aprovisionarnos, en sus
modernos centros comerciales, para lo que pudiera pasar en los próximos meses.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qMuiUSdfRzkXTE7j4p3xQhnOKet74XOfStGa95S24VyIKcJltvOXr9tKV3ADvPCtk3YgVRCEE11bF2ZrurEqfmWqx7OV3p4vrp0Iv-mBXStHEFmNoCeiDDdQw5P0dcpcRTsd2kBxhyphenhyphen4/s1024/27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qMuiUSdfRzkXTE7j4p3xQhnOKet74XOfStGa95S24VyIKcJltvOXr9tKV3ADvPCtk3YgVRCEE11bF2ZrurEqfmWqx7OV3p4vrp0Iv-mBXStHEFmNoCeiDDdQw5P0dcpcRTsd2kBxhyphenhyphen4/s640/27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz97BIjIJWYFRaiQ61FS2x5jNp27_RIGbxlkPCgm6K38c0VDYTN4lr2VttVUsVMethlM9Yx88zqO7sMSczp9VX5pdgIpbA7M7jR8-m-tWuuQiV_uRIZmEyCy5ryxI8Mviind5yPIcZOiY/s1024/28.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz97BIjIJWYFRaiQ61FS2x5jNp27_RIGbxlkPCgm6K38c0VDYTN4lr2VttVUsVMethlM9Yx88zqO7sMSczp9VX5pdgIpbA7M7jR8-m-tWuuQiV_uRIZmEyCy5ryxI8Mviind5yPIcZOiY/s640/28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Como tampoco había restricciones de movilidad nos dirigimos
por la nacional 5 hacia el sur para pasar unos días en Caleta Vitor, siempre
rodeados por esas inmensas montañas de arena.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sPrFmu_anPMgalMMZfjpm-dgPJEX4J20hm8dSgsAIh0cYWKGhAAmlnfd8KvxLLOrrryyoxjUWHtnMCcSNVoxLHEWm5YD6PsA19wJ_fDtUHEfYZrqdL-X6NgAZznPGHkuN2QXi-f7QJo/s1024/29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-sPrFmu_anPMgalMMZfjpm-dgPJEX4J20hm8dSgsAIh0cYWKGhAAmlnfd8KvxLLOrrryyoxjUWHtnMCcSNVoxLHEWm5YD6PsA19wJ_fDtUHEfYZrqdL-X6NgAZznPGHkuN2QXi-f7QJo/s640/29.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJjZcC6vq8QBfvdYpHgzlBEanCJhBMF91iViohtd4-9eRqP9Y6_pJ_y9BDFfy4tUBcOK4FqGSUWP5oBoL86mw6vCA5whB_MZHmcmsx8fDcq1B9qEH2qf2PsU7MsDiAEQhI3p4CAzciJE/s1024/30.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJjZcC6vq8QBfvdYpHgzlBEanCJhBMF91iViohtd4-9eRqP9Y6_pJ_y9BDFfy4tUBcOK4FqGSUWP5oBoL86mw6vCA5whB_MZHmcmsx8fDcq1B9qEH2qf2PsU7MsDiAEQhI3p4CAzciJE/s640/30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Caleta Vitor es una apartada y solitaria playa franqueada por
cerros que superan los mil metros de altura y donde viene a desembocar el río
que le da nombre.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldsbcQ4mggkfO3FJeSQlMClQjCV4mrI4824MS8Tq6sSwZ9nMoThwWDMVaf-CWLrbYADDCUuwlS_ZQ8wa1m5EaywT_cMMeCMPkumi8A-EUppawEzc3lWwUWE9soS6z20Wvgeo32INujyE/s1024/31.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldsbcQ4mggkfO3FJeSQlMClQjCV4mrI4824MS8Tq6sSwZ9nMoThwWDMVaf-CWLrbYADDCUuwlS_ZQ8wa1m5EaywT_cMMeCMPkumi8A-EUppawEzc3lWwUWE9soS6z20Wvgeo32INujyE/s640/31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Acampamos sobre el acantilado de tierra que da al río. Para
acceder a la playa teníamos que cruzar el cauce con el agua hasta las rodillas.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwK93ySwgyPfnvhIpLrvKBx5HiDewk0Xt5kaYIHHsg07dsTonnry9n8sdbDicSsxxmO0_jJ70MtDKKjqVsje2tL6Jole5sPJtz32dO2n9Ga4GFJdBicgADXWnZHCM1ZvxggoAcGvPl0k0/s1024/32.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwK93ySwgyPfnvhIpLrvKBx5HiDewk0Xt5kaYIHHsg07dsTonnry9n8sdbDicSsxxmO0_jJ70MtDKKjqVsje2tL6Jole5sPJtz32dO2n9Ga4GFJdBicgADXWnZHCM1ZvxggoAcGvPl0k0/s640/32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCVcjObxDKAJNQ99qgcOChgACIpApBDSl2VfQDkebG6SHPRv3eo95bRIqcIpBBz3x9FcfzU9Lj9Husfd47bCGvn5YwQb8sKe-C4gRzlk9Jzkh7wMtuNo5nwtVKbC2Y01oGbjMSt-h82k/s1024/33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCVcjObxDKAJNQ99qgcOChgACIpApBDSl2VfQDkebG6SHPRv3eo95bRIqcIpBBz3x9FcfzU9Lj9Husfd47bCGvn5YwQb8sKe-C4gRzlk9Jzkh7wMtuNo5nwtVKbC2Y01oGbjMSt-h82k/s640/33.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Al río acudían miles de pájaros todos los días que se
zambullían y se lavaban en agua dulce, todo un espectáculo.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAsRxUhdnpIjH36U3vjeFRGN3QQ5U0QTmV6JWysO3tJaO-RvqVtkNizJU5mwFDor2fw-hTkFQFj9xTcbCAAjNDxDIc8t7chw8iaIeQrhrNaVfrhIgCRDso_NLcfjk1rUMgtJuwh9GVw0/s1024/34.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAsRxUhdnpIjH36U3vjeFRGN3QQ5U0QTmV6JWysO3tJaO-RvqVtkNizJU5mwFDor2fw-hTkFQFj9xTcbCAAjNDxDIc8t7chw8iaIeQrhrNaVfrhIgCRDso_NLcfjk1rUMgtJuwh9GVw0/s640/34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvI6JY-LYhtKefVmDCWRSawtfoCid72ZPfj3Kr9OF9IPtDqTR5ZDHthte7nGe9JK27dBg2u_NsiX0ZMehkyaKfsAeT9UNYtXO9a4YsGpe8pnC0h8hw2r_TnZxpO88kQbc4WTANLNx-HgI/s1024/35.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvI6JY-LYhtKefVmDCWRSawtfoCid72ZPfj3Kr9OF9IPtDqTR5ZDHthte7nGe9JK27dBg2u_NsiX0ZMehkyaKfsAeT9UNYtXO9a4YsGpe8pnC0h8hw2r_TnZxpO88kQbc4WTANLNx-HgI/s640/35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">En la parte sur de la bahía, en la ladera de la montaña, hay
unas cuantas cuevas. Como sabíamos que la cultura chinchorro se desarrolló en
esta región, 10.000 años atrás, nos gustó encontrar vestigios de ella en
algunas pinturas rupestres.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvrCo0UwxFF2MGo9xBfiVS9xK9NW3DpyhiVjk_73w9f-b9RnZtaT_Oo70JAdtJkftaSeVGV1FtrViJfc5xM2MWKFsP2-cMph19zpUr9ewxz7qEQoOyRIOb4OY5KHzQuIRlnSDM4hWTfk/s1024/36.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvrCo0UwxFF2MGo9xBfiVS9xK9NW3DpyhiVjk_73w9f-b9RnZtaT_Oo70JAdtJkftaSeVGV1FtrViJfc5xM2MWKFsP2-cMph19zpUr9ewxz7qEQoOyRIOb4OY5KHzQuIRlnSDM4hWTfk/s640/36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwBmhFKJFQlS5G2VDEYwG0sCZZWauQftpwGGzLO7B2cUVgBjzyHnta9Ck5X4QhfweJJeXkg9PTTGdu0kgdAt7aFWw9_2QYwZUJrI9PMSgXSkDfQ1alPaCKEkSuzBoaDIqTW5s05Fx3kE/s1024/37.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwBmhFKJFQlS5G2VDEYwG0sCZZWauQftpwGGzLO7B2cUVgBjzyHnta9Ck5X4QhfweJJeXkg9PTTGdu0kgdAt7aFWw9_2QYwZUJrI9PMSgXSkDfQ1alPaCKEkSuzBoaDIqTW5s05Fx3kE/s640/37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kL6g1fQRTeICKP2Thd4G8mRIo_G5M1jwZAZ_wLmUViYUmnZWYbmTOUOAGhyiTKlIl8cczJ8Wkt9VCHYQGPtWFi1Ue55Yrn4LvvP3y0ZwbHIDtCcguD6mEfyVEgTmF7XTQuoTztWMd0U/s1024/38.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6kL6g1fQRTeICKP2Thd4G8mRIo_G5M1jwZAZ_wLmUViYUmnZWYbmTOUOAGhyiTKlIl8cczJ8Wkt9VCHYQGPtWFi1Ue55Yrn4LvvP3y0ZwbHIDtCcguD6mEfyVEgTmF7XTQuoTztWMd0U/s640/38.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBF2HMWgnlOIZTkMtOvN4FVScA_ffXOM44XDTR1khr4QB7qvSZqI-i7HU61T7Tvf10XJt8-GYC3Gu6OvcbI7E5G_LiSitvGFMQBOjbxpolgumWGx5F_r1VEpMorL37lMpaOGW-KCcRe8/s1024/39.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBF2HMWgnlOIZTkMtOvN4FVScA_ffXOM44XDTR1khr4QB7qvSZqI-i7HU61T7Tvf10XJt8-GYC3Gu6OvcbI7E5G_LiSitvGFMQBOjbxpolgumWGx5F_r1VEpMorL37lMpaOGW-KCcRe8/s640/39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde las terrazas de las cuevas se domina la playa y el
fondeadero de los barcos de pesca, así como un viejo y desvencijado muelle
donde ahora sestean los cormoranes.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_OgVhCkFsTaCr8I8l5QF7xU2o9tzEfeEQd4pidvo8d2erbeE4ofYiMZOjW7e8-GZ2_QIgG8u62q_d9jN58ES7W-mprI7vR-_kh9NeL4lx2rc_fw0CHR4Zn-7-8RvpHjJX1LznVOch4M/s1024/40.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_OgVhCkFsTaCr8I8l5QF7xU2o9tzEfeEQd4pidvo8d2erbeE4ofYiMZOjW7e8-GZ2_QIgG8u62q_d9jN58ES7W-mprI7vR-_kh9NeL4lx2rc_fw0CHR4Zn-7-8RvpHjJX1LznVOch4M/s640/40.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpQYNsz4bcXeS42EPWEUH526UoF_lvcG_Rr9juvbGE1elA-WOVaJ1dJgJkKuv45iH3izTMNxf7oTb31608yJIXJdQvpfvOlyxVo93LnQtKZttB38p3ulfoTsgCG6iHl0h8M4X6EkQ-5HY/s1024/41.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpQYNsz4bcXeS42EPWEUH526UoF_lvcG_Rr9juvbGE1elA-WOVaJ1dJgJkKuv45iH3izTMNxf7oTb31608yJIXJdQvpfvOlyxVo93LnQtKZttB38p3ulfoTsgCG6iHl0h8M4X6EkQ-5HY/s640/41.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Si pasas muchas horas observando la naturaleza y teniendo
suerte, la vida animal siempre te sorprende. Seguíamos las evoluciones de un
león marino que de tanto en tanto emergía para coger aire y sumergirse de
nuevo, en una de ellas lo vemos zarandear violentamente algo. Con el zoom comprobamos
que había capturado un pulpo.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngxZyuGnlaXFmbXqBo-tcZejDF3AhUNQVdTmW04pO3CdUF1mMlzLaKzg1vfV6uNNmPBTQpMwi7Amhn2x2Pm_J14ZsQQkMOEu4-zF_8Lhkm2DiUgOQDp4MNGf3kr4b77OemUby88uYySg/s1024/42.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngxZyuGnlaXFmbXqBo-tcZejDF3AhUNQVdTmW04pO3CdUF1mMlzLaKzg1vfV6uNNmPBTQpMwi7Amhn2x2Pm_J14ZsQQkMOEu4-zF_8Lhkm2DiUgOQDp4MNGf3kr4b77OemUby88uYySg/s640/42.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgClC9Q3VG9M4279maBHwXxrZDg77tXCgMzZu5aBmVRg1iNOVxNKaLMdFt_k8m4NUI1B8U2HFyh5mA0U4ZYDV-8chGjphl8KORizBTcBDOkhROYchoTfCO0H4eBAQdCigExt3MaTB6jwE/s1024/43.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgClC9Q3VG9M4279maBHwXxrZDg77tXCgMzZu5aBmVRg1iNOVxNKaLMdFt_k8m4NUI1B8U2HFyh5mA0U4ZYDV-8chGjphl8KORizBTcBDOkhROYchoTfCO0H4eBAQdCigExt3MaTB6jwE/s640/43.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">En otro rincón de la costa encontramos una esquiva nutria
marina.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PiDeMn0tVOMh1nqe-eagBjHVeL5VdkRC6kXMq3r6zm96UI2wSJ1-rDEVWwoc78BEBhfyOHyUuYusTym2y4NgVvLTMHMVRnDu-hwQvmlK8XUM6tFtcVcy_r42eSQZ3pzEdeoy8mtm-YA/s1024/44.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2PiDeMn0tVOMh1nqe-eagBjHVeL5VdkRC6kXMq3r6zm96UI2wSJ1-rDEVWwoc78BEBhfyOHyUuYusTym2y4NgVvLTMHMVRnDu-hwQvmlK8XUM6tFtcVcy_r42eSQZ3pzEdeoy8mtm-YA/s640/44.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">El mar está plagado de vida y en cambio en el desierto costero
muy pocos animales pueden sobrevivir, como los lagartos de Arica y los
omnipresentes y carroñeros jotes cabeza colorada.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ZXqx7XStc_Zd4RDCGuBT17USlCZ1XmD66Ju4Gt4oVC3BQcSaH_3jCfuDkYDw36OyaKxPfGtz08yw2Igha9UYq0co63XovMQNs1Lq5UOEnNfpmKl5wpjxQ-RjdQSSg2hNsYKQKktN1VE/s1024/45.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ZXqx7XStc_Zd4RDCGuBT17USlCZ1XmD66Ju4Gt4oVC3BQcSaH_3jCfuDkYDw36OyaKxPfGtz08yw2Igha9UYq0co63XovMQNs1Lq5UOEnNfpmKl5wpjxQ-RjdQSSg2hNsYKQKktN1VE/s640/45.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLuRoiSUIE5-ytamZVj4w48YyI4p-HbczZURKRNBo8Mu0FwwXiYoTUhcYYIWc87Pb99XQTLJcrjf4JL7DeN1Ou39gHqa2yg9Y21eTcXH2LJ7jrd-KDj7PP-W-owdErjRstk1AnjRafXmc/s1024/46.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLuRoiSUIE5-ytamZVj4w48YyI4p-HbczZURKRNBo8Mu0FwwXiYoTUhcYYIWc87Pb99XQTLJcrjf4JL7DeN1Ou39gHqa2yg9Y21eTcXH2LJ7jrd-KDj7PP-W-owdErjRstk1AnjRafXmc/s640/46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">En la parte norte de la bahía se encuentra un asentamiento de
cañones que en su tiempo defendieron la entrada a esta playa.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGGmmMp8YZJ4O2rPPkU7OEfGix7fR-LufT6x3FI4Z8LmyF-5S-aSVmmfXIwg78vIK0j3msGptnm50YCQebKDH_RR8MEo_FU3f0BQsif0IEniqVwlJw-MMG0lt1s8tMJlHEaWGddM5mE8/s1024/47.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitGGmmMp8YZJ4O2rPPkU7OEfGix7fR-LufT6x3FI4Z8LmyF-5S-aSVmmfXIwg78vIK0j3msGptnm50YCQebKDH_RR8MEo_FU3f0BQsif0IEniqVwlJw-MMG0lt1s8tMJlHEaWGddM5mE8/s640/47.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Se nos acaban las provisiones de fruta y verdura y decidimos
regresar a Arica. Además la pandemia está avanzando y nos recluirnos en la
parcela de Javier. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Los primeros meses
los dedicamos al mantenimiento del camión. Y entablamos una buena amistad con Iván
que se encarga de las obras de Javier en Arica.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYgQyxWYztZlIpDzm1Rxoozop6uurcqDWLWdm6FjcoKDC_VwGcZbrziwFZzflN4DzUd21htj7O23J8ML11_-Wq8EvCjEpXZLAXyFy8Z-sHbjQvXPK7upvHCiM-UZEr-lXrdD8fyRcYw3w/s1024/48.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYgQyxWYztZlIpDzm1Rxoozop6uurcqDWLWdm6FjcoKDC_VwGcZbrziwFZzflN4DzUd21htj7O23J8ML11_-Wq8EvCjEpXZLAXyFy8Z-sHbjQvXPK7upvHCiM-UZEr-lXrdD8fyRcYw3w/s640/48.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVAyAxAU9L1Ihz5nUlMfnExMZRuxqwgL8hyphenhyphen4KZEKWgesYRUV6AUzHZc8uxyXxSt0CsavDf95Uz46wlkDiPX5xoIzvbO5iRnuRMyb7LxXfXnhjq7rWU3M26koao9MXWne1QWBzBce_pxgI/s768/48.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="762" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVAyAxAU9L1Ihz5nUlMfnExMZRuxqwgL8hyphenhyphen4KZEKWgesYRUV6AUzHZc8uxyXxSt0CsavDf95Uz46wlkDiPX5xoIzvbO5iRnuRMyb7LxXfXnhjq7rWU3M26koao9MXWne1QWBzBce_pxgI/s640/48.1.jpg" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro refugio está en Villa Frontera, una urbanización a
unos 8 km. de Arica, donde tenemos la suerte de poder salir todos los días a
andar o pasear en bicicleta por el cercano desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimiQIYBkMZFx5kiFHgBRJTaC7g027dmcS0GNpfFC54zY5UgoJaYDgrivbEaG-cTRXnUAhAumNRydDhbdYcnwvWrA_DthJMc81WbNBMpVpz8RMwYO-y7d8E60zjA1bYzMwwZFRN54-Gvs/s1024/49.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="531" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimiQIYBkMZFx5kiFHgBRJTaC7g027dmcS0GNpfFC54zY5UgoJaYDgrivbEaG-cTRXnUAhAumNRydDhbdYcnwvWrA_DthJMc81WbNBMpVpz8RMwYO-y7d8E60zjA1bYzMwwZFRN54-Gvs/s640/49.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJf5-MZJSGvBUeJrnkZKqtYKdyi8CxHv_HqqYmX-Qjk0RK5If-R9YtA_Ak6LGFWP0Xl1o-gLsj3Swa5QcxK37GrWNfv4ijbKmN-iVJbqUEyUjTb7Ip3j5p-Dpr8-U66eyr2Xq94sCpvl8/s1024/50.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJf5-MZJSGvBUeJrnkZKqtYKdyi8CxHv_HqqYmX-Qjk0RK5If-R9YtA_Ak6LGFWP0Xl1o-gLsj3Swa5QcxK37GrWNfv4ijbKmN-iVJbqUEyUjTb7Ip3j5p-Dpr8-U66eyr2Xq94sCpvl8/s640/50.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-E9PrrA3J6ag1aUdqVGx8g4NCUTpzls19PBluG89th2k3DrCgOMc7KEAp0yoZeKCe8mV-dkDYHfWCy_J073Ulv-sB6iBY_6-g_bkroUPkgvpAb0_ObrIMdN4sC5DXw3ly4ebiZbRXKUs/s1024/51.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-E9PrrA3J6ag1aUdqVGx8g4NCUTpzls19PBluG89th2k3DrCgOMc7KEAp0yoZeKCe8mV-dkDYHfWCy_J073Ulv-sB6iBY_6-g_bkroUPkgvpAb0_ObrIMdN4sC5DXw3ly4ebiZbRXKUs/s640/51.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Alternamos el desierto con paseos por la playa. Desde el
primer día nos propusimos una norma de trabajo, lectura y ejercicio físico, que
nos ha mantenido con una relativa actividad.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8K1QR626Bi_QMFAVgZ7qJIeHmtOjdujR0_F3HiGBtYgPCLV6R-83DtESbqK60MacFx7xyPkTDaX3RHe00Uudxn52S5UXcnuRnre-tw67DeIjO8jS5UiVa9HQPAtsXq6qCYk9DmFRuLI/s1024/52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8K1QR626Bi_QMFAVgZ7qJIeHmtOjdujR0_F3HiGBtYgPCLV6R-83DtESbqK60MacFx7xyPkTDaX3RHe00Uudxn52S5UXcnuRnre-tw67DeIjO8jS5UiVa9HQPAtsXq6qCYk9DmFRuLI/s640/52.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjghOYkeAM8PhnMG7k1AnHlm4az4DbSIBCxqAUhDlHMbSHCUVaaCHiykR3AzC6E9le9pN4dL47K96L_6Hgs-eDrek8RrjsULUQ96YD5QY02aHYkF3VUTaRxURc1LNR6dcERIDD84GgXUn4/s1024/53.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjghOYkeAM8PhnMG7k1AnHlm4az4DbSIBCxqAUhDlHMbSHCUVaaCHiykR3AzC6E9le9pN4dL47K96L_6Hgs-eDrek8RrjsULUQ96YD5QY02aHYkF3VUTaRxURc1LNR6dcERIDD84GgXUn4/s640/53.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegsfeCMhsOOf7Dx98SlP8EI1_4ZH-pQboHNGxUsAXKx_06NxC97i464gfmdfhgOjeINRQvT1LRas9579eIMs41JtgA1dp0IEQoNYsaJ_pwF2rchuxOR4Thj4VbA9YcYgG-XOGI5ULDeI/s1024/54.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegsfeCMhsOOf7Dx98SlP8EI1_4ZH-pQboHNGxUsAXKx_06NxC97i464gfmdfhgOjeINRQvT1LRas9579eIMs41JtgA1dp0IEQoNYsaJ_pwF2rchuxOR4Thj4VbA9YcYgG-XOGI5ULDeI/s640/54.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqTv9tuM1mE96khOKr5_MGfjEwrLJKTarkakq_9JPdyjM9v-rA3ZaqTXPR5IJTIDAHhF0LSQ6eYwyMneBIhKedlEOEtrlAgrlqzyC4imyywJZJwfPhYSWKFKY2qfPI4WuwluTO1SUF5s/s776/90.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="776" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqTv9tuM1mE96khOKr5_MGfjEwrLJKTarkakq_9JPdyjM9v-rA3ZaqTXPR5IJTIDAHhF0LSQ6eYwyMneBIhKedlEOEtrlAgrlqzyC4imyywJZJwfPhYSWKFKY2qfPI4WuwluTO1SUF5s/s640/90.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos a Arica en los primeros días de marzo y todavía
teníamos la ingenua creencia, que por aquel entonces circulaba en España, de
que solo habría unos pocos infectados. El mismo día de nuestra llegada cerraron
las fronteras y el paso entre provincias. El objetivo<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>de este año era recorrer Bolivia y Brasil,
pero pronto nos dimos cuenta que esto iba a ser imposible y pasamos a un plan B
que consistiría en bajar por Chile para dejar el camión cerca de Patagonia. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Hoy, en los últimos días de agosto, todavía siguen cerradas
fronteras y carreteras y hemos decidido regresar a España, con la esperanza de
poder volver a final de año si la pandemia ha remitido lo suficiente para continuar
nuestro viaje hacia el sur.<o:p></o:p></span></p>Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-30875192522490518552020-04-18T08:00:00.000+02:002020-04-18T08:00:04.820+02:00Chile, desierto de Atacama. II<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque estamos en el corazón del desierto de Atacama, algunas
aldeas indígenas viven gracias a las pequeñas corrientes de agua que les llegan
desde las altas cumbres de los Andes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La aldea de Caspana, encajonada en una profunda garganta a
3260 m. de altitud, es un oasis en medio de este desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mauricio, el paramédico del pueblo, se ofreció a acompañarnos
por el lugar, contándonos su historia y tradiciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un pequeño museo muestra entre otras curiosidades una lámina
con las distintas deformaciones del cráneo que se realizaban entre las etnias
que habitaban la zona.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los atacameños son los indios indígenas que han habitado este
lugar desde hace 2000 años y en la ladera este del cañón se encuentran unos
antiguos enterramientos, que han sido saqueados a lo largo del tiempo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La iglesia de San Lucas, construida en adobe y madera de
cactus, es la segunda más antigua del país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos esta escondida aldea y continuamos ascendiendo por
encima de los 4000 metros con la impresionante cordillera de los Andes al
fondo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esa noche la pasamos junto al puesto de los carabineros,
estamos muy cerca de la frontera boliviana y es zona de tráfico de droga y robo
de vehículos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De nuevo el mal de altura nos hace bajar y desistimos de ver
los géiseres del Tatio. Nos dirigimos hacia San Pedro de Atacama rodeados por
el impresionante y desolador desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es increíble la naturaleza, como surge la vida de las pequeñas
corrientes de agua que descienden de los nevados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pequeña aldea de Tocorpuri ahora vive tanto del pastoreo
como del turismo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos kilómetros después llegamos al humeral del volcán Putana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Donde encontramos una colonia de flamencos rosas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seguimos descendiendo y
el desierto de las alturas da paso a una floreciente primavera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">San Pedro de Atacama se encuentra a 2,436 m. sobre el nivel
del mar, bajo el impresionante cono del volcán Licancabur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos a San Pedro de Atacama atraídos por su leyenda
aventurera y nos encontramos una turba de turistas que ha transformado el
pueblo en función de sus necesidades, agencias de turismo, tiendas de souvenir,
hoteles, restaurantes…….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los desiertos que en todo el mundo son libres para
recorrerlos, aquí lo han compartimentado en pequeños recorridos con horarios y
tasas de entrada. Han convertido el desierto en un parque temático.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Empezamos visitando el Valle de la Luna, del que solo se
pueden recorrer 10 kilómetros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En vista del panorama decidimos continuar hacia el sur,
explorando el salar de Atacama. En el camino a la laguna Tebinquiche paramos en
dos pequeñas lagunas llamadas los Ojos del Salar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La comunidad indígena atacameña protege esta laguna en medio
del salar. Un medio muy hostil pero que la selección natural ha prodigado una
avifauna muy valiosa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Más al sur está la laguna Chaxa que pertenece a la Reserva
Nacional los Flamencos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas lagunas de escasa profundidad y estrato fangoso
posibilita la vida de abundantes formas microscópicas, de algas unicelulares y
micro vertebrados que son el alimento de las aves migratorias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La artemia es un diminuto crustáceo de menos de un centímetro,
del que se alimentan los flamencos y les da su rosada pigmentación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un paisaje desolador y extremo, pero que a su vez acoge
multitud de vida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En un extremo del salar, pegado a las montañas que lo rodean,
está el pueblo de Peine, donde paramos a darnos un chapuzón en sus rústicas
piscinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí cruzamos de este a oeste el salar de Atacama.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y vimos otra cara y otros intereses contrapuestos al
proteccionismo de los indígenas atacameños, las minas de litio al sur de este
mismo salar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después del baño de multitudes de San Pedro de Atacama ha sido
un acierto hacer la travesía de más de 200 kilómetros por las pistas mineras
desde Peine a Baquedano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y dormir en la soledad que solo se experimenta en los grandes
desiertos bajo un estrellado firmamento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Baquedano nos dirigimos a Mejillones otra vez en la costa
del Pacífico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí regresamos a Arica por el fantástico paisaje
costero entre el desierto y el océano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al norte de Tocopilla, a los pies del cerro Tolar de 2300
metros y junto al mar, se encuentra su campo de golf, que data de 1.930.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es el primer campo que encontramos en un desierto donde no hay
una brizna de hierba.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El límite de las calles está marcado con yeso, los lagos son
piedras pintadas de azul, los greenes de ceniza negra, los bunker de sal y los
árboles ramas secas pintadas de verde.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos quedamos a dormir en la playa junto a la casa club.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí regresamos a Arica donde dejaremos el camión para
volar a España, como todos los años, por Navidad. En nuestra mente quedará para
siempre la visión de las cálidas arenas del desierto de Atacama mezclándose con
las frías del océano Pacífico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Chile se extiende encajonada entre la cordillera de los Andes
y el océano Pacífico, a lo largo de 39º de latitud. Un terreno muy variado que
va desde el desierto al norte a los campos de hielo de Patagonia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En nuestra primera incursión por el país hemos recorrido una
pequeña parte del norte, unos 600 kilómetros desde la frontera de Perú hasta la
ciudad de Antofagasta. Toda esta extensión bajo el dominio del desierto de
Atacama que ocupa el tercio norte de su territorio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El desierto de Atacama es uno de los más áridos del planeta y
muestra un paisaje variado donde encontramos inmensas planicies de arena entre
altas montañas y volcanes salpicados de oasis alimentados por riachuelos que
descienden de la cordillera de los Andes, o las cuencas salinas que dan lugar a
esos luminosos lagos salados, aquí denominados salares, o la costa del Pacífico
con la humedad de su neblina, llamada camanchaca, que proporciona humedad a
cactus y arbustos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero este desolador y yermo territorio es un rico depósito de
minerales y en él se encuentran algunas de las minas más grandes e importantes
del mundo que constituyen la base de la economía chilena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Descendiendo por la costa pensamos en los contrastes de la
naturaleza, a la izquierda las áridas arenas casi sin vida, a la derecha la
exuberante vida bajo el mar que favorecida por la corriente de Humboldt
proporciona alimento a multitud de aves y peces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo más impresionante del paisaje costero son sus altas
montañas, de más de mil metros, cubiertas de arenas de colores amarillos,
ocres, negros o violetas que descienden entre neblina junto al intenso azul del
océano que se pierde en el horizonte.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-32676180528301091852020-04-04T08:00:00.000+02:002020-04-04T08:00:00.495+02:00Chile, desierto de Atacama. I<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los trámites aduaneros en la frontera entre Perú y Chile han
sido los más fáciles de Latinoamérica, en unas mismas oficinas se hacen los de
los dos países. El único inconveniente para entrar en Chile es que no se puede traer
ningún producto perecedero, fruta, verdura, carnes, huevos….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El 25 de octubre cruzamos la frontera. A tan solo 15 km. llegamos
a la ciudad de Arica, la más importante del norte de Chile con 243.000
habitantes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Teníamos necesidad de cambiar las ruedas y por contactos con
otros viajeros sabíamos que en Arica vendían unas de nuestra medida, que no
habíamos encontrado en toda Latinoamérica. La última vez que las cambiamos fue
en Malasia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Gracias a René, a su familia y a Iván, no solamente hemos
encontrado unas cubiertas en Arica, sino unos amigos a los que estamos muy
agradecidos por toda la ayuda que nos han prestado. Entre otras cosas, este año
dejaremos el camión en su casa para ir a España por Navidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Antes de eso queremos visitar el norte de Chile. A solo 12 km.
de Arica esta el museo arqueológico de las momias de Chinchorro en San Miguel
de Azapa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este museo alberga objetos de los primeros pobladores de este
desierto hace unos 10.000 años.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero lo más relevante son las momias de la cultura chinchorro,
que datan del 6000 al 2000 a.C., consideradas las más antiguas del mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 8 km. hacia el sur, siguiendo la línea de la costa
fuimos a ver las cuevas de Anzota.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las cuevas de Anzota eran antiguas prospecciones mineras, que
hoy se han convertido en un pequeño parque natural con un paseo a través de las
distintas cavidades.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunas de estas cuevas son naturales y fueron habitadas hace
miles de años, como lo demuestran algunas pinturas rupestres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un paseo muy agradable junto al mar, rodeados de miles de
aves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos de nuevo a Arica para tomar la nacional 5, la única
carretera que se dirige hacia el sur, rodeados por el desierto costero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 15 km. en lo alto de una colina, rodeada por el inmenso
desierto, se alzan las esculturas denominadas Presencias Tutelares.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fueron esculpidas en 1997 y el artista quiere transmitir la
cosmovisión de las antiguas culturas mirando al sol y a la luna.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las montañas de arena del desierto chileno son de unas
gigantescas proporciones. Los pequeños riachuelos que descienden de la cercana
cordillera de los Andes proporcionan una raya de vida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora dejamos la carretera principal para dirigirnos a Caleta
Camarones junto al Pacífico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí se han encontrado
restos de la cultura chinchorro, cazadores, recolectores, que poblaron la zona
norte del desierto de Atacama hace 8000 años.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Estas esculturas
representan a las momias que fue su forma de enterramiento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pasamos unos tranquilos días paseando junto al mar, pues el
baño casi es prohibitivo por la maldita corriente de Humboldt que mantiene el
agua muy fresca. Además es la causante del desierto costero por la falta de
lluvias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En un lejano espigón, donde hay cuatro barcas de pesca,
tuvimos la suerte de ver a las esquivas nutrias marinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En un altozano dominando Caleta Camarones existe otra estatua
que representa una momia de un niño chinchorro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al otro lado de la bahía el río Camarones forma una laguna en
su desembocadura, donde se mezcla el agua dulce y salada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 30 km. continuando por la Panamericana hacia el sur,
nada más cruzar el río Chiza hay unos enormes geoglifos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos por el inhóspito desierto que ahora nos depara otro
interesantísimo encuentro con sus ancestrales culturas en Tiliviche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las arenas del desierto no les permitían a estos primeros
pobladores realizar pinturas o esculturas y su arte lo tuvieron que plasmar en
estos geoglifos. Gracias a la ausencia de lluvias se han mantenido hasta
nuestros días.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La línea negra del asfalto es el único color que rompe la
regularidad del desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el pueblo de Huara nos desviamos hacia el este para ver el
Gigante de Atacama, que se encuentra en la cara norte del cerro Unitas. Aunque
no lo parezca en la fotografía, este geoglifo tiene 86 m. de alto, una de las
representaciones más grandes de una figura humana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el cruce hacia Iquique se encuentra la mina Humberstone,
que empezó a funcionar en 1820. El salitre era necesario para la fabricación de
explosivos y sus nitratos muy valiosos como abono. En 1960 la aparición de los nitratos artificiales
termino con la vida de esta mina.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hoy está protegida por la Unesco y recorrerla nos retrae a tiempos
pasados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Más que una mina es un poblado donde llegaron a trabajar 3700
personas, su visita aparece como un silencioso conjunto de calles, plazas
vacías y edificios desiertos, como el teatro, las escuelas o la panadería…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A partir de aquí decidimos continuar descendiendo a lo largo
de la costa y así llegamos a la rica ciudad de Iquique, atrapada entre el
Pacífico y la meseta desértica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Goza de un gran desarrollo gracias a sus ricos depósitos de
minerales, conocida como la capital de los nitratos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra llegada a Chile ha coincidido con una oleada de
manifestaciones, protestas y disturbios callejeros que han ocasionado la
muerte, hasta ahora, de 23 personas, más de mil heridos. En Iquique
presenciamos una de estas multitudinarias manifestaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos costeando embriagados con las calas y playas que la
mar ha horadado en la costa, que nos hacen parar a menudo para contemplar el
paisaje.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La corriente de Humboldt que no nos deja bañarnos, por sus
frías aguas, aporta tal cantidad de
plancton del que se alimentan numerosas especies. Como estos miles de pájaros
que cubren la playa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pequeños pueblos pesqueros se suceden a lo largo de la ruta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Tocopilla dejamos la costa y nos dirigimos hacia el
interior. En Calama esta la mina de cobre Chuquicamata, la más grande del mundo
a cielo abierto, unos 3 km. de ancho por 5 de largo y una profundidad de mil
metros. No la pudimos visitar por las huelgas actuales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Continuamos hacia la
aldea de Chiu Chiu.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta población conserva la iglesia más antigua de Chile,
construida en 1540 en estilo colonial español, con dos campanarios y gruesos
muros de más de un metro de espesor. El techo y las puertas son de madera de
cactus y las vigas de algarrobo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A solo ocho kilómetros al norte se encuentran las ruinas de
Pucara de Lasana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los pucaras son fortalezas preincaicas del imperio Tiahuanaco,
que se construyeron entre los años 1000 y 1450 d.C., para proteger las rutas
comerciales, en lugares estratégicos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En este caso, para proteger la vega del río Loa en el desierto
de Atacama.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Muy cerca paramos junto a la laguna Inca Coya.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sobre esta laguna existe la leyenda de que no tiene fondo y
parece que en ella se sumergió Jacques Cousteau para medir su profundidad y no pudo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La obtención del salitre fue el primer gran impulso en la
economía chilena de principios del siglo XIX. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También de aquí surgen las primeras contiendas de los
trabajadores para obtener un sueldo adecuado y unas jornadas más justas, que se
saldó con la muerte de mineros en la famosa masacre de 1907.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pablo Neruda lo sintetiza en este poema:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salitre, harina de luna
llena </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">cereal de pampa calcinada, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">espuma de las ásperas arenas, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">jazminero de flores enterradas. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Polvo de estrella hundido en
tierra obscura, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">nieve de soledades abrazadas, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">cuchillo de nevada empuñadura, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">rosa
blanca de sangre salpicada.</span></div>
Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-51336223284250972482020-03-22T08:00:00.000+01:002020-03-22T08:00:00.715+01:00Perú, del lago Titicaca a la frontera con Chile.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Puno, con sus 130.000 habitantes es la población más
importante del Lago Titicaca. Fundada en 1668 por el Conde de Lemos y virrey de
Perú, la bautizó con el nombre de San Carlos de Puno.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El lago Titicaca se encuentra a 3.800 m. de altura, lo que lo
convierte en el lago navegable más alto del planeta y el segundo más grande de
Sudamérica con 194 km. de largo y 80 en su punto más ancho.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Del puerto salen numerosas embarcaciones de pasajeros hacia
las distintas islas del lago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una de ellas nos lleva a visitar las islas flotantes de los
uros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los uros construyeron sus peculiares islas flotantes hace
siglos, para escapar de los pueblos hostiles de tierra firme.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la actualidad hay más de 40 islas flotantes, construidas
amontonando totora sobre las raíces de esta planta. Para mantener la
flotabilidad cada semana se van colocando nuevos juncos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El barco nos lleva a una de ellas, donde vive una familia que
nos explica su forma de vida y sus tradiciones. Estas pequeñas islas solo tienen
unos 50 m. de largo por 20 de ancho.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para nosotros es una gran decepción pues ahora son solo islas
montadas para el turismo y las únicas embarcaciones de totora que vimos las
utilizan para pasear a los turistas, empujadas por una barca con un fueraborda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para terminar el recorrido, nos llevan a otra isla donde hay
dos restaurantes, donde ni siquiera han cuidado la estética de su construcción
tradicional.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desembarcamos de nuevo en Puno, bordeamos parte del lago y nos
fuimos a dormir a la península de Chacuito.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aparcamos en lo alto de una colina con vistas al lago. Al
atardecer, los últimos rayos de sol iluminan las cumbres nevadas de la
Cordillera Real de Bolivia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde el lago Titicaca iniciamos el descenso hacia la costa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 57 km. de Puno paramos en las aguas termales de Collpa
Apacheta. Donde nos dimos un relajante baño en estas aguas medicinales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Entre los 3000 a 4000 metros de altitud es el hábitat ideal de
las llamas y con frecuencia vemos rebaños.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos al oscurecer a la aldea de Titire, situada a 4.360 m.
Allí nos quedamos a pasar la noche, una de las más frías que hemos tenido en el
altiplano, la temperatura descendió por debajo de los 0º y<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>se congeló el agua en las tuberías.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo la carretera, a unos tres kilómetros del pueblo se
encuentran unos géiseres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al no estar publicitados no les dimos mucha importancia, pero
cuando bajamos a verlos nos quedamos alucinados de las formaciones rocosas que el río había horadado. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Formando una caverna donde el terreno se ha desplomado,
dejando unos fascinantes puentes de piedra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La zona está horadada por múltiples y pequeñas galerías,
poblada por estos grandes roedores de cola larga.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las llamas y vicuñas siguen apareciendo a lo largo de la ruta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Conforme descendemos de las montañas el paisaje se va
transformando y de nuevo lo ocupa el desierto costero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera desemboca en la población de Ilo en la costa del
Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ilo es un importante puerto pesquero y su malecón junto al
mar, su principal atractivo. Allí conviven pescadores, pelícanos y lobos
marinos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos costeando hacia la frontera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por ese eterno paisaje que se extiende desde que abandonamos
Ecuador, donde las arenas del desierto chocan con las azuladas aguas del mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las lagunas costeras reciben a los flamencos en su larga
migración desde el norte buscando temperaturas más cálidas en el verano
austral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las pequeñas aldeas de pescadores son la única nota de color
en el paisaje.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos kilómetros después llegamos al puesto fronterizo de
Chacalluta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perú con 1.300.000 km2, es el tercer país en tamaño de
Latinoamérica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Geográficamente se divide en tres regiones: la Cordillera de
los Andes y el altiplano, que como una columna vertebral separa al país de
norte a sur, teniendo al este el desierto de la franja costera, desde la
frontera ecuatoriana a la chilena y al oeste la región amazónica que ocupa la
mitad de su territorio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Climatológicamente solo hay dos estaciones: de mayo a octubre
es seco y cálido, y de noviembre a abril es la estación de las lluvias. Aunque
en el desierto costero raramente llueve debido a la corriente de Humboldt que
mantiene las aguas frías y el ambiente fresco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de recorrer 4.461 km. por este país, podemos decir que
las carreteras principales están en buen estado, las secundarias regulares y
las pistas de tierra bastante malas. Lo peor de todo son los muertos o
reductores de velocidad, que continuamente te hacen parar. Son realmente
desesperantes, especialmente para los que conducimos camiones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El precio del gasoil es de 0,88 euros/litro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-32679062371849384082020-03-08T08:00:00.000+01:002020-03-08T08:00:26.047+01:00Perú, por el altiplano.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salimos de Cuzco por la carretera del altiplano que nos
llevará al lago Titicaca. Pasamos la primera noche junto a la laguna Huacarpay,
cerca de unas ruinas incas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuzco fue una de las principales capitales incas y quedan vestigios
de su pasado por todas partes. Unos kilómetros después llegamos a las ruinas de
Rumicolca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas impresionantes puertas servían como puesto de control
para las personas que se dirigían a Cuzco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSqFE2lqwaXcvwd6woW5d4dMFRpHrPe1hMQnMNxZNWB_s8km-09nQQOJSPoH7rzo8VMOfoWQxuaHQ4EXWYWM4Gdit2eZdZAf3GdRE5NPkEV0bZ5uDKwUzG0h1gosAQ8ZP5FCbQtO0z-2I/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSqFE2lqwaXcvwd6woW5d4dMFRpHrPe1hMQnMNxZNWB_s8km-09nQQOJSPoH7rzo8VMOfoWQxuaHQ4EXWYWM4Gdit2eZdZAf3GdRE5NPkEV0bZ5uDKwUzG0h1gosAQ8ZP5FCbQtO0z-2I/s640/4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fueron levantadas sobre los cimientos de unas antiguas ruinas
guari y con sus 12 m. de altura, son una de las construcciones más imponentes
incas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta estructura cumplía una doble función, ya que se utilizaba también como acueducto, por la parte superior pasaba un canal de agua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los paisajes del altiplano son los más atractivos de Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un bonito ejemplo es la carretera de las cuatro lagunas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Que desemboca en el pueblo de Combapata, en la confluencia del
Vilcanota con otro río y donde se encuentra un restaurado puente colonial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el pueblo de Putimarca dormimos antes de adentrarnos por las
montañas de colores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Recorriendo el pueblo llegamos hasta la escuela donde
celebraban su aniversario y nos invitaron a ver la función que hacían los niños.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Desde aquí nos
adentramos en el valle por una pista de tierra, entre cultivos y pequeñas
aldeas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En algunos tramos la pista se estrecha peligrosamente y el
paisaje se transforma conforme ascendemos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto a una aldea de pastores dejamos el camión y comenzamos
el ascenso a pie hacia las montañas de colores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El entorno es fascinante, de alta montaña, coloreado de ocres
y violetas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos por encima de los 4000 m., el cielo se empieza a
cubrir y una fría aguanieve nos hace regresar sin llegar a nuestro objetivo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos y ya de noche llegamos al pueblo de Checacupe, nos
quedamos a dormir en la plaza de armas, junto a su iglesia colonial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente continuamos hacia el sureste por el
altiplano, que con su rala vegetación, sus picos nevados, sus azules lagunas y
sus montañas de colores, es el paisaje más bello de Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Paramos para visitar el<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>pequeño pueblo de Lampa, conocido como la Ciudad Rosada, por el barro
utilizado en sus fachadas. Pero las nuevas construcciones no respetan su
arquitectura tradicional y solo queda así una calle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la plaza de armas, como siempre, sobresale del resto de
edificios la iglesia de Santiago Apóstol. Fue construida con cantos de río y
argamasa en 1650.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El interior está ricamente adornado por pinturas coloniales de
las escuelas de Quito y Cuzco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También se pueden visitar las catacumbas con una colección
macabra de huesos humanos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las tiendas de pueblo nos recuerdan las pequeñas tiendas de
ultramarinos de nuestra infancia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca ya del lago Titicaca, nos desviamos hacia el complejo
arqueológico de Sillustani, situado en una península en el lago Umayo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue una necrópolis utilizada en distintas épocas por Pukaras, Collas
e Incas, que abarca un periodo del 200 a.C. al 1532 d.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las tumbas incas destacan por el perfecto ensamblaje de sus
bloques de piedra y la característica arquitectónica donde la base es más
estrecha que la parte superior.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunas tumbas se quedaron a medio construir, como muestra
esta fotografía, con una rampa de trabajo y las piedras talladas a su
alrededor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el camino a estas ruinas vive un pueblo indígena, con unas
casas características que no hemos visto en todo Perú. Son como pequeñas
fortificaciones que unen todos los elementos de la casa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Visitamos una de ellas donde pudimos ver su forma de vida y su
artesanía.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Además de las llamas crían cuis, ese roedor tan frecuente en
su gastronomía.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Toda la estructura de la vivienda está en torno a un patio
central con la cocina como principal elemento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La característica principal es que todas las entradas y
dependencias están protegidas de los malos espíritus por dos toritos de
arcilla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como vimos en el anterior blog, para visitar Machu Picchu
contratamos un tour que incluía el traslado desde Cuzco, unos 200 km. que se
realizan en las rápidas furgonetas en seis horas. Éramos 18 ocupantes, todos
turistas de distintas nacionalidades.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al poco de iniciar el trayecto, ya nos sorprendió el nulo
interés que nuestros vecinos mostraban por la visión que se deslizaba a través
de las ventanas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pronto la mayoría dormitaba o cerraban las cortinas para que
nos les molestara la luz de un día radiante, sin ningún interés por lo que
ocurría en el exterior. Y eso que pasamos por un puerto de montaña a 4.500 m.
de altitud, con espectaculares vistas o pueblos que mostraban ruinas aztecas, o
la estrecha pista de tierra sobre el río Urubamba, solo por poner unos
ejemplos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nada de esto interesaba a estos turistas, lo cual me lleva a
reflexionar sobre las diferencias que nos separan. Y quizás la más importante
sea esta, para los viajeros el camino tiene la misma o más importancia que el
objetivo, mientras que a los turistas solo parece que les interesa el selfi
junto al monumento o las ruinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cualquiera puede llegar en un viaje organizado a cualquier
punto de interés turístico del mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El verdadero reto, la verdadera aventura consiste en llegar
por tus propios medios.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-4349360847899031312020-02-23T11:32:00.000+01:002020-02-23T11:32:52.701+01:00Perú, el legado de los Incas.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos despedimos de la costa, dejando por nuestra popa el Parque
Nacional de Paracas. Hacia el interior se extienden los viñedos de Ica, la
mayor zona vinícola del país, algunos de ellos datan del siglo XVI.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pegado a la ciudad de Ica esta el popular oasis de Huacachina.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una verde laguna entre dunas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Uno de los principales atractivos de este oasis es recorrer sus
dunas en bugui.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos dirigimos hacia Nazca como siempre rodeados por el
desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la costa peruana nunca llueve, lo que ha permitido que se
hallan conservado durante siglos las líneas de Nazca. A unos kilómetros de
Palpa encontramos la primera torre de observación donde podemos ver las figuras
antropomórficas de Llipata, anteriores a las de Nazca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia la ciudad de Nazca esta la segunda torre de
observación. Desde aquí solo tenemos una vista parcial de las más cercanas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Nazca dejamos la Panamericana para adentrarnos en la
cordillera Occidental.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un interminable puerto de montaña, como solo existen en estas
naciones, donde las curvas se suceden sin fin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coronando el altiplano se pasa por la Reserva Pampa Galeras
dedicada a la protección de las vicuñas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La vicuña ha estado protegida desde la época de los incas,
produce pequeñas cantidades de lana muy fina y apreciada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A 3.200 m. de altitud pasamos por la ciudad de Puquio, la más
importante de esta ruta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera continúa ascendiendo y llegamos a las llanuras
del páramo, donde se suceden pequeñas aldeas de pastores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un paisaje de extraordinaria belleza con pequeñas lagunas,
pero que se convierte en una encerrona para nosotros. Partimos del nivel del
mar y tenemos que dormir a 4.400 m., la peor noche del viaje por el mal de
altura.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El altiplano se mantiene por encima de los 4.000 m. y no
esperábamos ver a esta altitud en las lagunas a un grupo de flamencos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas altas tierras son el hábitat de las llamas, guanacos,
vicuñas y alpacas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente por fin la carretera desciende siguiendo el
curso del río Lambrama.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos a los 2.400 m. en la ciudad de Abancay, donde de
nuevo se inicia el <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>ascenso hacia Cuzco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Saywite hacemos una parada para ver su zona arqueológica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El elemento más importante de estas ruinas es un monolito de piedra
de 2,5 m. de altura y 11 m. de circunferencia, donde se han tallado más de 200
figuras, tallas humanas, construcciones o accidentes geográficos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando por la carretera vemos a lo lejos el nevado
Salcantay de 6.271 m.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMGARcOv3E2Dc82FGqohTWX65w0E95cpudoIemtjXpb9xiGibb6XQMW5Y_BUESiQF1goo4SMFxwY3yRNlZYH9hyphenhyphen6z8koczXOYSP2Nk87Nwi_tXANgAfaKdlO4th6mVXb3PKXlOmtfPTQ/s1600/36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="1024" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMGARcOv3E2Dc82FGqohTWX65w0E95cpudoIemtjXpb9xiGibb6XQMW5Y_BUESiQF1goo4SMFxwY3yRNlZYH9hyphenhyphen6z8koczXOYSP2Nk87Nwi_tXANgAfaKdlO4th6mVXb3PKXlOmtfPTQ/s640/36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No es fácil ver en estas naciones animales salvajes como estos
antílopes. Es una grata sorpresa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A 75 km. de Cuzco dormimos en las ruinas de Tarawasi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Era un lugar de adoración inca, depositando sus momias en las
hornacinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como en muchas ruinas incas, cuando llegaron los españoles aprovecharon
esas estructuras para construir encima, como vemos en los restos de esta antigua
hacienda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Nazca a Cuzco hay 640 kilómetros y hemos tardado 3 días por
estas carreteras de montaña.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Entrando en el casco antiguo, quedamos fascinados por la
belleza de sus edificios, calles y plazas. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El estilo de construcción español se nota allá donde dirijas
la vista, calles estrechas adoquinadas, balcones de madera, soportales o patios
coloniales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por la noche, toda esa belleza es realzada por el efecto de la
luz sobre estos viejos edificios.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Cuzco a Machu Picchu hay 240 km de carretera de montaña,
con los últimos 40 de pista de tierra. Como los tenemos que hacer de ida y vuelta
decidimos contratar un tour y no darle esa paliza al camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Son seis horas de viaje y la furgoneta nos deja en un lugar
conocido como la central Hidroeléctrica. Desde aquí tenemos 12 km. andando,
junto a las vías del tren, hasta el pueblo de Aguas Calientes o Machu Picchu
Pueblo, donde pasamos la noche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este pueblecito de montaña se ha transformado por la avalancha
de turistas que le llegan todos los días.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente, a las seis de la mañana, ya estamos en una
interminable cola para acceder a los autobuses que nos subirán a la ciudad
perdida de los incas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No hemos tenido mucha suerte con el día elegido para la
visita,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>la niebla y la lluvia estarán presentes todo el día.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mientras que despeja la niebla hacemos el pequeño paseo hasta
el Puente del Inca, con impresionantes vistas sobre el valle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quizás parte de la grandiosidad de este lugar se deba a que
pocas civilizaciones han logrado ensamblar tantos bloques de piedra de gran
tamaño con tanta maestría.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gs00JbTNB2WkLXng4gkrCwJLuQUXf6NJmfuMKAK3d6GhYacu7YDY1-qGSTyAVUt0YSKVdKt-z7SvN7O61M0qxSfH_lVA4o0RGkxJNGmdJ_RNzmw1jUU5VkGC-6RVxuqfWHTR4zGaGT0/s1600/91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="798" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gs00JbTNB2WkLXng4gkrCwJLuQUXf6NJmfuMKAK3d6GhYacu7YDY1-qGSTyAVUt0YSKVdKt-z7SvN7O61M0qxSfH_lVA4o0RGkxJNGmdJ_RNzmw1jUU5VkGC-6RVxuqfWHTR4zGaGT0/s640/91.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegar a Machu Picchu es toda una odisea. Este legado inca
está en manos de una empresa chileno-francesa, que tiene la concesión para la
explotación turística hasta el 2030. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para acceder desde Cuzco a Aguas Calientes, 200 km., solo se
puede hacer en tren con unos precios muy elevados. Los peruanos pagan por el
trayecto 10 soles, unos tres dólares, para los extranjeros es de 250$.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La otra solución, que como hemos comprobado la hacen la mayoría
de los turistas, consiste en hacer por carretera 6 horas de furgoneta hasta la
estación eléctrica, pasando por un puerto de montaña a 4500 m., además de un
largo recorrido por una pista de tierra. Después quedan 12 km. andando por la
vía del tren hasta Aguas Calientes donde se llega al anochecer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente para subir a las ruinas hay dos opciones, en los autobuses de la concesión, 12 $ por trayecto, o dos horas de dura
ascensión a pie.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salimos de las ruinas a las 11 de la mañana y después de
desandar todo lo anterior, llegamos a Cuzco a las diez de la noche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nosotros pagos 120$ por persona por el transporte desde Cuzco,
el hotel en Aguas Calientes con cena y desayuno, y la entrada a las ruinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-25947593358792725442020-02-02T20:02:00.000+01:002020-02-02T20:02:38.580+01:00Perú, Lima y la Reserva Paracas.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Iniciamos nuestra siguiente etapa dejando el parque nacional
del Huascarán. Pasamos la noche en el pueblo Conococha a 4.100 m. junto al lago
del mismo nombre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera hacia la costa desciende en un interminable puerto
de miles de curvas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Végueta, junto al Pacifico se encuentran las ruinas
Vichama.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Posiblemente se trata de las ruinas más antiguas de América,
que junto con las de Caral, datan de un periodo entre 1.800 a 1.500 a.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hablan de un cambio climático que hubo en esa fecha, que causo
una hambruna, como lo demuestran los relieves encontrados de figuras famélicas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El paisaje costero sigue siendo desértico, con algunas zonas aisladas
de cultivos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia el sur entramos en Lima, una súper urbe, con
más de 9 millones de habitantes. Aquí se concentra un tercio de la población
del país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No es el mejor destino para visitar con nuestro camión.
Después de varias horas de búsqueda de un parking, por fin lo conseguimos junto
a la playa en el barrio de Miraflores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Miraflores es el barrio más elitista, seguro y prospero de la
ciudad. En él se concentran la mayoría de zonas comerciales, tiendas, teatros,
galerías de arte, etc.…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí un autobús nos lleva por la recta avenida Arequipa,
de más de 6 km., hasta el centro histórico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lima fue fundada por Francisco Pizarro en 1535 y fue la
capital del imperio español en Sudamérica durante casi dos siglos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De la importancia de aquellos tiempos dan fe los numerosos edificios
eclesiásticos y gubernamentales que se concentran en torno a la plaza mayor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De entre todos ellos destaca el impresionante complejo
colonial de San Francisco, con su fachada barroca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es muy interesante la visita del convento recorriendo el
claustro, las catacumbas o su impresionante biblioteca con más de 20.000 libros
de los siglos XV – XVII, muchos de ellos primeras ediciones y pergaminos. Es
una pena que no esté permitido hacer fotos en el interior.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Abandonamos la bulliciosa y brumosa ciudad de Lima, buscando
de nuevo nuestra tranquilidad, que la encontramos en Puerto Viejo a 70 km. al sur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La corriente fría de Humboldt se extiende a lo largo de la
costa de Perú, creando esa bruma permanente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos hacia el sur pegados a la costa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y llegamos a Pisco donde se elabora el conocido licor peruano
y donde se encuentran más de 80 bodegas. Queríamos comprar vino tinto pero no
fue posible porque los peruanos solo consumen un vino dulce.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca de aquí se encuentra la Hacienda San José que fue
levantada por los jesuitas como plantación de azúcar en 1688.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue de las más ricas de la zona y en ella llegaron a trabajar
hasta 1000 esclavos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su visita nos permite imaginar cómo era la vida en el siglo
XVII, con su rica mansión, sus catacumbas y sus celdas de castigo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo hacia el sur, entramos en la Reserva Nacional de
Paracas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es la mayor zona costera protegida de Perú. El desierto se
encuentra con el mar ofreciendo un impresionante paisaje.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra primera parada la hacemos en Lagunillas, un puerto
pesquero con varios restaurantes de pescado, rodeado de hermosas playas donde
se puede pasar la noche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los grandes pelícanos conviven con los pescadores a la espera
de pillar los despojos <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>de la pesca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por numerosas pistas que se entrecruzan nos adentramos hacia
el sur descubriendo en cada elevación un paisaje que supera al anterior.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunos pescadores viven en improvisadas cabañas y alternan la
pesca con la recogida y secado de algas que venden para la exportación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Qué valor tendrán para sacarlas de la playa aunque sea por los
acantilados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Alrededor de estas cabañas merodea un zorro acostumbrado a
ellos porque le suministran agua y a veces algo de comida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Durante los días que pasamos en este parque, tuvimos la suerte
de disfrutar de nuestras dos grandes pasiones, el desierto y el mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En las salinas de Otuma los flamencos chilenos hacen un alto
en su migración.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta reserva posee una gran diversidad de aves, mamíferos,
moluscos, reptiles…….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El desierto de extiende hacia el sur tantos kilómetros como
días queramos disfrutar de él.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Laguna Grande hay otra aldea de pescadores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunos imprudentes se acercan demasiado a la arena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La Reserva de Paracas es un lugar ideal para perderse y
disfrutar de la soledad, el mar y el desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunas veces cuando la climatología es muy adversa, las
condiciones del terreno difíciles o la soledad de las rutas apartadas e
inhóspitas, nos hace pensar lo apropiado que sería compartir estas dificultades
con otro camión, otros viajeros en los que apoyarnos cuando la dudas de
continuar hacia adelante nos quiebra nuestra determinación y arrojo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En esas circunstancias extremas nos viene al pensamiento que
dependemos de una maquina que puede fallar y dejarnos tirados en el peor de los
momentos, o tener alguna enfermedad o lesión y <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>es cuando echamos de menos a otros amigos en
quien apoyarnos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero un código no escrito de los viajeros llamado libertad,
hace casi imposible<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>compartir ruta y
tiempo con otros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La libertad de elegir que hacer en cada momento, la libertad
de la ruta a seguir, la libertad de administrar tu tiempo, la libertad de
escoger tus riesgos……hace muy difícil ir acompañados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-32382664703653971472020-01-14T19:23:00.002+01:002020-01-14T19:23:44.166+01:00Perú, el callejón de Huaylas.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El callejón de Huaylas se conoce como al valle que se extiende
entre la cordillera Blanca y la cordillera Negra a lo largo de 180 km. Estas montañas
han sido muchas veces<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>verdugo de los
pueblos que se asientan en su valle. Como le paso a Yungay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yungay era un pueblo asentado a los pies del Huascarán y el
terremoto de 1970 desgajo una parte de esta montaña, y una masa de hielo,
granito y tierra se deslizo<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a más de 300
km/h sepultándolo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este lugar se conoce como el Campo Santo de Yungay, ya que
bajo los jardines se encuentran sepultadas 18.000 personas, solo sobrevivieron
400. Hoy las nubes ocultan al gigante Huascarán, la montaña más alta de Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Recorriendo este valle siempre tenemos a la izquierda los
picos nevados de la cordillera Blanca y a nuestra derecha la cordillera Negra
sin nieve.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Carhuaz llegamos en los últimos días de septiembre,
coincidiendo con las fiestas de su patrona, la virgen de La Merced.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los lugareños se acumulan en los alrededores de la iglesia
para presenciar la procesión de la virgen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el interior de la iglesia los danzantes ofrecen su baile a
la virgen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mientras en el exterior una curandera realiza sus prácticas
chamánicas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Huaraz, a 3100 m. de altitud y con 80.000 habitantes, es la
población más importante del valle. De aquí parten los montañeros que de todo
el mundo vienen a escalar alguna de las 33 cumbres que sobrepasan los 6.000
metros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 30 km. de Huaraz subimos a la laguna Antacocha a 4.000
m. de altitud desde donde tenemos una magnifica vista de la cordillera Blanca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos al principio de la estación de lluvias y el cielo
encapotado solo de vez en cuando deja ver los nevados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el lago Antacocha pasamos los mejores días desde que
llegamos a Perú, un lugar tranquilo y solitario, con los campesinos en sus
quehaceres diarios.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También por allí merodeaba este perro que aunque era muy
miedoso podía más el hambre que el miedo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos al valle para dirigirnos <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a Chavín Huantar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera asciende hasta los 4.450 m. y pasa por lugares de
extraordinaria belleza, como la laguna Querococha.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después desciende hasta el pueblo de Chavín de Huantar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí se encuentra un centro ceremonial de la cultura chavín.
Data aproximadamente del 1.300 a.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo más interesante de estas ruinas son los túneles
subterráneos, una red de pasadizos cubiertos con losas rectangulares y muy bien
ventilados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El recinto amurallado estaba decorado con las cabezas clavas.
Gran número de ellas se conservan en el museo de la ciudad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí regresamos de nuevo a la carretera que recorre el
callejón de Huaylas, para adentrarnos por una pista de tierra hacia la parte
sur del Parque nacional del Huascarán.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Queremos subir hasta el glaciar Pastoruri a 5.100 m. de
altitud y para aclimatarnos a la altura nos quedamos a dormir en la entrada del
parque. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esparcidas por el valle hay algunas cabañas de los pastores con
sus rediles de piedra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Volvemos a estar por encima de los 4.000 m. El páramo con su
manto marrón muestra que estamos al final de la estación seca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto a la pista, en un roquedal, hay unas pinturas rupestres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En zonas remotas de los Andes crece la Puya Raimondi uno de
los más bellos exponentes de su flora.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta extraordinaria planta es la mayor bromelia del mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Que pequeños nos vemos al lado de estos gigantes cactus que
viven alrededor de 100 años.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pista continua ascendiendo hasta el parking donde comienza
el sendero que conduce al glaciar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A esta altura, por la falta de oxigeno, cualquier pequeño
esfuerzo te agota. Así que nos tomamos con mucha tranquilidad los 2,5 km. que
nos separan de la lengua del glaciar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ha merecido la pena el esfuerzo para encontrarnos a los pies
de este coloso de hielo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Parque Nacional Huascarán es Patrimonio de la Humanidad y
ocupa la mayor parte de los 180 km de la Cordillera Blanca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sin duda es uno de los lugares más interesantes de los que
hemos visitado de Perú. En él se encuentran más de 30 cumbres que sobrepasan
los 6.000 metros, entre ellos el Huascarán, la cima más alta de Perú, o el
Alpamayo, una pirámide casi perfecta, considerada una de las montañas más
bellas del mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El parque está salpicado de lagos color turquesa, como la
laguna Parón o las de Llanganuco, y cuenta con decenas de glaciares como el
Pastoruri. Aquí también se encuentra la Puya Raimondi, un gigante cactus que
alcanza los 12 metros de altura y solo florece una vez en sus 100 años de vida,
tras lo cual, la planta se marchita y muere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hace casi 30 años que vine aquí por primera vez a escalar el
Huarcarán, pero las condiciones de la montaña y la climatología nos negaron su
cumbre cuando solo nos quedaban 400 metros. Unos días después, por las lagunas
de LLanganuco ascendimos al Pisco, que fue nuestra consolación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este recuerdo me viene a la memoria porque la pista hacia las
lagunas estaba en pésimo estado, ahora 30 años después, sigue en las mismas
condiciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Qué pena que este bello parque no sea más accesible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-77228088295231566242019-12-23T08:00:00.000+01:002019-12-23T08:00:33.766+01:00Perú, de la costa a los nevados.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A tan solo 9 kilómetros de Huanchaco se encuentra el gran
complejo de Chan Chan, Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la Unesco desde 1986.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es considerada la mayor ciudad de adobe del mundo, construida
entre los años 1100 y 1300 d.C. Sus muros todavía conservan frisos con aves marinas, peces…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En esta metrópolis, en su momento de apogeo, llegaron a
habitar hasta 100.000 personas del imperio chimú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En 1470, tras sufrir un prolongado asedio, los chimú se
rindieron al imperio inca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como el subsuelo es muy rico en agua (aunque estamos rodeados
por el desierto) los chimú crearon las chacras, que eran campos de cultivo
hundidos, que se irrigaban por capilaridad, obteniendo así varias cosechas al
año.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En los alrededores de Chan Chan hay varias Huacas o pirámides
de adobe, nosotros visitamos la Huaca del Dragón.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Todos estos complejos arqueológicos están bordeando la ciudad
de Trujillo, la segunda en importancia de este país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue fundada por Diego de Almagro en 1534 y está considerada la
joya urbana del norte de Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los edificios históricos e iglesias se conservan relativamente
bien y muchos han sido restaurados realzando los colores con los que se
pintaron originalmente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siempre que podemos nos acercamos a la costa para pasar la
noche. Como en esta ocasión en Puerto Morín, a 40 km. al sur de Trujillo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Allí descubrimos como los pescadores sacan de la arena una
especie de mariscos que utilizan como carnada para la pesca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La costa peruana es un completo desierto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la localidad de Santa dejamos la costa para adentrarnos en
las montañas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Chuquicara es una aldea de parada obligada antes de empezar la
sinuosa y estrecha carretera que asciende paralela al río Santa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí hasta Caraz nos separan 110 km. de infarto, en la
mayor parte del recorrido no te puedes cruzar con otro vehículo salvo
minúsculos aparcaderos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De vez en cuando la carretera te deja un respiro cuando el
valle se abre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En algunas ocasiones los derrumbes cubren la carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al final está el Cañón del Pato, donde las paredes graníticas de
2000 m. de altura se aproximan hasta 6 metros en su parte más angosta. En esta
zona se suceden más de 30 túneles que permiten el paso justo del camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque vamos tocando el claxon para avisar de que entramos en
los túneles, es inevitable cruzarte con algún vehículo y tener que maniobrar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por fin el valle se abre cerca de Caraz.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una pequeña población de calles estrechas con un bullicioso
mercado.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las mujeres con su vestimenta tradicional y sus espectaculares
sombreros vienen de los alrededores a vender sus productos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el norte del pueblo se hallan las ruinas de Tunshukaiko, que
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>pertenecieron a la cultura huaraz, en
torno al 2000 a.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un aluvión de tierra y barro cubrió estas ruinas y así se
conservaron durante cientos de años. Se trata de una estructura circular y se
sabe que están enterrados cinco niveles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca de las ruinas charlamos con esta mujer que
confecciona<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>mantas hilando la lana de
sus ovejas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Caraz se encuentra 2.270 m. de altitud. Desde el mismo pueblo
una pista de tierra asciende hacia la Cordillera Blanca. A vista de pájaro van
quedando las casitas que pueblan estas laderas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Vamos camino de una de las lagunas más bellas de esta
cordillera y tenemos que remontar la morrena, aproximándonos a sus paredes
verticales por una pista tan estrecha como el camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de 32 km. de subida, y hasta que no cumbreamos en el
refugio, no tenemos la impresionante y espectacular visión de la laguna Parón.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pertenece al Parque Nacional Huascarán y se encuentra a 4.185
m. de altitud, encajonada en un valle glaciar, con los picos nevados coronando
el horizonte.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un camino escavado en la roca la recorre en toda su longitud.
La belleza que nos rodea a lo largo del paseo es realmente excepcional.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para subir de la costa al callejón de Huaylas viniendo del
norte, la ruta más lógica es de Santa a Caraz. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Consultamos con algunos conductores y nos dijeron que la
carretera era estrecha y peligrosa, que mejor tomáramos la de más al sur, pero
esta tiene casi el doble de kilómetros y por otro lado nuestro espíritu
aventurero nos empuja hacia esa más complicada que pasa por el famoso cañón del
Pato y sus angostos 35 túneles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para los camiones es un poco más difícil ya que la mayoría de
los túneles y otros tramos de la ladera del cañón sobre el río Santa no hay
posibilidad de cruzarse con otro vehículo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Otro factor de riesgo son las caídas de piedra de las
empinadas laderas y algunas avalanchas que cubren la carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No resulto excesivamente peligrosa, el no conocer la ruta es
lo que te mantiene en tensión hasta el final. Imagino que a los conductores de
autobús que pasan por aquí todos los días les parecerá menos excitante. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-79975084897928020232019-12-07T08:00:00.000+01:002019-12-07T08:00:05.042+01:00Perú, la costa norte.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El 12 de septiembre entramos en Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos a la frontera a medio día y no sabemos si porque se
les había caído el sistema, o porque no tienen sistema, se nos hizo de noche
con el papeleo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tumbes es la primera ciudad importante al norte del país. Paramos
a cambiar dinero y activar el teléfono.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera desciende paralela a la costa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo primero que nos llama la atención de este país es la
cantidad de suciedad que hay por todas partes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El paisaje árido y desértico, nos recuerda al sur de
Marruecos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos 100 km. al sur de Tumbes llegamos a Máncora, considerada
la población costera más moderna de Perú. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Andando por la playa hacia su extremo sur llegamos a la zona
de los pescadores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos sorprende ver que algunos pescadores salen a faenar en
unas balsas de troncos, con una vela cuadra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En los acantilados, un pacifico piquero de patas azules nos
deja acercarnos casi hasta tocarlo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hasta Tucumé tenemos 400 km. de desierto, aunque el subsuelo
debe ser rico en agua ya que encontramos algún cultivo de arroz.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es increíble la similitud del paisaje con una zona sahariana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También se asemeja en las modestas y destartaladas paradas de
carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Tucumé se encuentra un yacimiento arqueológico conocido
como el Valle de las Pirámides, que prospero entre los años 1000 a 1375 d.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El tiempo, el agua y el viento han deteriorado enormemente
estas pirámides construidas con ladrillos de barro y argamasa, y en la
actualidad presentan un aspecto de colina de tierra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este complejo se compone de 26 pirámides de adobe de unos <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>40 metros de altura. Las investigaciones más
relevantes fueron realizadas por el noruego explorador Thor Heyerdahl que
encontró evidencias de una cultura marítima precolombina. De aquí su viaje en
la Kon-tiki de Perú a la Polinesia en una balsa de totora.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De las tres pirámides que presentan restos de la cultura
Lambayeque solo pudimos visitar una, donde están los frisos de unos marinos en
una balsa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas pirámides llamadas huacas, que en quechua puede
significar algo así como un lugar especial o espiritual, fueron utilizadas por
otras culturas posteriores como enterramientos. Un grupo de excavación
trabajaba en ello coincidiendo con nuestra visita.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quizás lo más interesante de este complejo es su museo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí encontramos este escrito que nos parece relevante.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos a la ciudad de Lambayeque, que todavía conserva
algunos restos de la arquitectura colonial, donde se encuentra el museo de
Sipán.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el museo de tumbas reales de Sipán se exhiben los restos
hallados de un gobernante precolombino, considerados los más ricos del Nuevo
Mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este hallazgo, por el rico contenido de la tumba, es
comparable al de Tutankamón. En el museo, que está prohibido hacer fotos, se
exhiben 1400 piezas de extraordinaria belleza, elaboradas en oro, plata, cobre,
bronce, piedras preciosas y cerámica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos hacia el sur rodeados del mismo paisaje desértico que
llevamos desde la frontera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65dN7-Om4bY3kaO-qI_q4CpdXHjV3JBOUVUdVVUlhHwUYwj92Ms-s1Abton2Esdvg29DiKg2px-5OyRHqn6q78lPaspDuqa6WnyoiN_HVCYF4rron-d8ijSfM3U0kUJm3VwG0cwxJ_lE/s1600/36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="1024" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65dN7-Om4bY3kaO-qI_q4CpdXHjV3JBOUVUdVVUlhHwUYwj92Ms-s1Abton2Esdvg29DiKg2px-5OyRHqn6q78lPaspDuqa6WnyoiN_HVCYF4rron-d8ijSfM3U0kUJm3VwG0cwxJ_lE/s640/36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No mucha gente tiene coche en Perú y el transporte público
está muy desarrollado. En las ciudades pequeñas el tuc-tuc o moto-taxi es el
medio de transporte más generalizado.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwuKnydy3h5-S0OQ2ZX2lFclo2Z_Gkd5U6zvNEQa9-iBiNrqNRi-ZEVk4nNKSe1DFkZJDyQKq25fgFQptRhFmx08H_qdjw9soYQJsnwVv3MrvkRjKnJUVGcMpEo93XdBkep9Fk4iGMsI/s1600/37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="1024" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwuKnydy3h5-S0OQ2ZX2lFclo2Z_Gkd5U6zvNEQa9-iBiNrqNRi-ZEVk4nNKSe1DFkZJDyQKq25fgFQptRhFmx08H_qdjw9soYQJsnwVv3MrvkRjKnJUVGcMpEo93XdBkep9Fk4iGMsI/s640/37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos 197 km. más al sur y pegado a la costa se encuentra el
complejo arqueológico denominado El Brujo, de la cultura moche. Acampamos muy
cerca de él, en una fría y solitaria playa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYOG9euskrW-8Qe72TBhr2rMJvBTUxCfUDTmuhygUocYc3k1o1JBdpVYYlhGq7MB-8k0kU5DNfCITsZwA2RE6w-wS2rfLiP0MGgiQa8pqaSHttmE3heo1f4hqJX5f6ej9-kZ8uFkFAi4/s1600/39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="1024" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYOG9euskrW-8Qe72TBhr2rMJvBTUxCfUDTmuhygUocYc3k1o1JBdpVYYlhGq7MB-8k0kU5DNfCITsZwA2RE6w-wS2rfLiP0MGgiQa8pqaSHttmE3heo1f4hqJX5f6ej9-kZ8uFkFAi4/s640/39.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí se descubrió una momia de 1500 años de antigüedad de una
mujer gobernante moche, denominada Señora de Cao.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El complejo consta de varias pirámides (Huacas). En la Huaca
de Cao Viejo, que es un importante santuario moche, fue donde se encontraron
los restos de esta rica gobernanta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El lugar donde se hallo la tumba todavía conserva parte de sus
pinturas originales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos hacia el sur, próximos a la costa y rodeados de
grandes plantaciones de caña de azúcar, llegamos a Huanchaco.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Huanchaco es un pueblo turístico y pesquero, donde todavía
utilizan embarcaciones de totora.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas balsas construidas con juncos de totora se denominan
caballitos y solo saben fabricarlas quien las usa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La primera impresión después de cruzar la frontera es
desalentadora. La suciedad se acumula en las cunetas como si la costumbre de
arrojar por las ventanas de los automóviles todo lo que les sobra se haya
generalizado.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Más adelante tenemos la visión de los primeros pueblos que
desfilan a lo largo de la ruta, su estado es lamentable, la mayoría de las
casas están a medio construir, o no las quieren terminar o no pueden. El caso
es que los pueblos muestran un estado de dejadez y abandono con esas
construcciones sin enlucir y sin pintar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A este panorama sucio y destartalado hay que añadir el paisaje
desértico y brumoso sin sol, donde la neblina se mezcla con el horizonte, sin
poder distinguir el cielo y la tierra que se mezclan en un mismo color. Es la
cara opuesta del desierto sahariano de sol y luminosidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Días mas tarde cuando contactamos con la gente en las calles,
en los mercados, en las tiendas…llegamos a la conclusión de que los peruanos
son poco simpáticos, amables o educados. Algunos de ellos incluso eluden
contestarnos cuando les abordamos para que nos ayuden con alguna información.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al principio pensábamos si esto se debía a que habíamos
entrado con mal pie al país, pero cuando hablamos con otros viajeros, nos
confirman todo lo dicho anteriormente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-37340948724303038322019-11-23T08:00:00.000+01:002019-11-23T08:00:03.904+01:00Ecuador, de la selva amazónica a la costa del Pacifico.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de visitar<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>la
cueva Jumandy acampamos junto al rio Misahuali.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro próximo destino es la localidad de Misahuali,
enclavada en las orillas del río Napo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Allí contratamos los servicios de un guía para recorrer el río
en su canoa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Napo es un afluente del Amazonas y la más importante vía
fluvial de la amazonia ecuatoriana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque la población indígena prácticamente ha desaparecido por
el progreso, visitamos una comunidad donde todavía viven en sus palafitos
tradicionales y el fuego permanece encendido todo el día para ahuyentar a los
insectos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue muy interesante comprobar la puntería que se obtiene con
la cerbatana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después hicimos un recorrido por la selva hasta la laguna de
los caimanes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En las copas de los arboles no paran de saltar una familia de monos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A lo largo del río encontramos numerosos buscadores de oro,
pues en las riberas y en antiguos cursos abunda este preciado mineral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También visitamos una familia indígena, que ahora su modo de
vida es enseñar a los visitantes como eran sus costumbres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ya no cazan porque está prohibido, pero nos enseña las
múltiples trampas que se utilizaban en la selva, tanto para la caza como para
la pesca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos sorprende, con su falda de fibras vegetales, su simpatía y
el uso tan profundo del idioma español, siendo quechua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para terminar la familia nos invita a un chocolate que
elaboran en el momento. Muelen unas semillas de cacao, las tuestan, añaden la
misma cantidad de melaza en la sartén y sale un excelente chocolate, que nos
sirven con rodajas de plátano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos por la tarde a Misahualli y como era domingo la
playa del rio, estaba abarrotada de bañistas <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>y animada por un grupo de divertidos y traviesos
monos capuchinos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde la amazonia regresamos al altiplano, la carretera
panamericana atraviesa la llamada Avenida de los Volcanes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro siguiente objetivo es el volcán más alto de Ecuador,
el Chimborazo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Conforme ascendemos, de nuevo la vegetación desaparece,
quedándose en un ralo páramo, poblado únicamente por rebaños de vicuñas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la puerta del parque nos informan que hoy ya no podremos acceder,
junto a este por una pista de tierra acampamos cerca del bosque de Polylepis.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una senda nos lleva hasta el bosque de Polylepis.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estos árboles centenarios eran conocidos como el árbol del
papel, ya que de su corteza laminar se confeccionaban papiros. Otra de sus
características es que son los arboles que crecen a mayor altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuando descendíamos cruzo por el collado un solitario venado.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La alta montaña es imprevisible y después del magnífico día
que habíamos tenido, por la noche se levanto una fuerte ventisca que bajo la
temperatura por debajo de los 0º. Además habíamos subido de los 400 metros de
la selva ecuatoriana a los 4300 m. de un tirón y el mal de altura nos afecto y
nos obligo a descender a la mañana siguiente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia el sur paramos en San Pedro de Alausí para
hacer algunas compras, la mayoría de sus mujeres siguen vistiendo de forma
tradicional.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De aquí saltamos a Tambo y en una pequeña oficina de
información nos indicaron el yacimiento de Coyoctor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se trata de unas pequeñas ruinas del pueblo cañarí, que habitó
estas tierras entre 3500 a.C. al 1500 d.C. En ellas destaca las pilas de los
baños ceremoniales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Muy cerca está el pueblo de Ingapirca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aquí se encuentra el yacimiento arqueológico más importante de
Ecuador.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas ruinas pertenecieron primero a los cañaris y después a
los incas, en un periodo comprendido<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>entre el 500 al 1532 de nuestra era.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un centro ceremonial donde destaca el templo al sol.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas ruinas exhiben uno de los mejores trabajos incaicos de
cantería.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí damos un gran salto hasta la costa del Pacifico,
donde recalamos en Puerto Cayo. Veníamos con la idea de bañarnos pero hace casi
tanto frío como en el altiplano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Descendiendo hacia el sur entramos en el Parque Nacional
Machalilla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Donde se encuentra la playa de los Frailes, posiblemente una
de las más bonitas de Ecuador.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Puerto López es un pueblo pesquero, turístico y bullicioso,
sobre todo en la mañana cuando llegan los barcos de pesca con sus capturas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por la noche el paseo marítimo se ilumina, con sus numerosas
coctelerías y tiendas de regalos. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero el principal atractivo de toda esta costa, entre junio y octubre,
es el avistamiento de ballenas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las ballenas jorobadas o cantarinas llegan a las aguas cálidas
del Pacifico ecuatoriano, procedentes de los fríos mares del sur para el
apareamiento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Donde<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>escenifican una
serie de rituales de cortejo, por lo que es común verlas realizar piruetas
fuera del agua y agitar y dar fuertes golpes con su cola y aletas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De regreso también pudimos ver una tortuga.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>algunas
veces se asoma a la costa, mostrándonos playas espectaculares o pequeños y
pobres poblados de pescadores, dominado por un paisaje seco y árido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Montañita es el destino turístico favorito de los jóvenes
mochileros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sus calles estrechas están repletas de tiendas, bares,
hoteles, albergues y restaurantes, y su vida nocturna atrae a estos jóvenes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Terminamos nuestro recorrido por la costa en Salinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es considerado el mejor complejo playero de Ecuador, sus
modernos hoteles y bloques de apartamentos lo convierten en el lugar predilecto
de los ecuatorianos acaudalados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Antes de despedirnos de la costa nos acercamos a la
Chocolatera, el punto situado más a occidente de Ecuador en la península de
Santa Elena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta pequeña reserva cuenta con una colonia de leones marinos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos despedimos del Pacifico y nos dirigimos a Guayaquil, donde
dejamos en el aeropuerto a María que termina sus vacaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También llega a su fin nuestro recorrido por Ecuador y nos vamos hacia la frontera con Perú.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A pesar de su reducida extensión (la mitad de España), Ecuador
es uno de los países con mayor diversidad geográfica y cultural.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el oriente se encuentra la región selvática de tierras
bajas, donde todos sus ríos desembocan en el Amazonas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el centro el altiplano, dominado por los grandes volcanes,
donde vive la mitad de la población del país, con su capital Quito.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al oeste la costa del Pacifico, más pobre, con pequeños
pueblos de pescadores y algunas playas de gran belleza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Además sus gentes son amables y educadas, el país es más
limpio que sus vecinos y sus carretas son las mejores desde que dejamos
E.E.U.U.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La seguridad también contribuye a viajar por todo el país sin
ningún problema, hemos acampado en lugares solitarios y salvajes, junto a
lagos, ríos y montañas, con total libertad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y para los viajeros que nos desplazamos por nuestros propios medios
resulta muy atractivo el precio del gasoil, 0,27 euros/litro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un país muy interesante, variado y atractivo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-41761740225542670892019-11-09T08:00:00.000+01:002019-11-09T08:00:00.524+01:00Ecuador, en ruta hacia oriente.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A finales de agosto regresamos de España y se viene con
nosotros María a pasar unos días de vacaciones. Dejamos atrás, por segunda vez,
la ciudad de Quito dirigiéndonos hacia el sur, pasando por los barrios más
pobres de esta metrópolis.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Conforme nos alejamos, el paisaje rural domina el entorno y
unos cuantos kilómetros después aparece en el horizonte el imponente
Cotopaxi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dormimos en la entrada del parque y al día siguiente fuimos
los primeros en acceder a él.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El parque Nacional Cotopaxi se creó alrededor de este
impresionante volcán de 5.897 m. de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por una carretera, que empieza asfaltada y después se
transforma en pista de tierra, accedemos al espectacular páramo, desprovisto a
esta altura de arboles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra primera parada la hacemos en la laguna de Limpiopungo,
situada a 3.880 m. de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un interesante sendero la rodea y quizás porque somos los
primeros, tenemos la suerte de contemplar una pareja de venados. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También vemos caballos cimarrones, patos, gaviotas andinas…..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pista de tierra continúa ascendiendo hasta un aparcamiento
a 4.580 m. de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuando bajamos del camión nos costaba trabajo mantenernos
de pie por las fuertes rachas de viento y aguanieve. Nos abrigamos e iniciamos
el ascenso hacia el refugio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque en las imágenes no lo parezca, la temperatura había
bajado varios grados bajo cero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El refugio se encuentra a 4.864 m. un emotivo y cálido abrigo
de madera, repleto de recuerdos de montañeros de todo el mundo. Allí nos
tomamos un humeante chocolate que nos supo a gloria.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desechamos continuar hasta los glaciares por el mal tiempo e
iniciamos el descenso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos a la Panamericana y continuamos hacia el sur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Ambato nos desviamos hacia el oeste en dirección a Baños.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Enclavada en un valle, rodeada de altas montañas, es una de
las ciudades que más turismo recibe de Ecuador por las numerosas actividades
que se pueden realizar al aire libre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La ciudad también es famosa por sus aguas termales. Nosotros
fuimos al balneario El Salado, que recibe sus aguas del volcán Tungurahua. Poco
recomendable por la cantidad de gente que accede a él.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Uno de los platos típicos de la gastronomía de Ecuador, que
proviene de la época incaica, es el cui. Un conejillo de indias que se asa
entero, que resulta un poco inquietante por su similitud con un roedor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hicimos el pequeño sendero que lleva al antiguo puente
colgante de San Francisco, sobre el rio Pastaza. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde el nuevo puente los amantes de emociones fuertes se
lanzan al vacío.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Saliendo de Baños nos desviamos para subir al mirador de Bella
Vista, donde se obtiene la mejor vista de la ciudad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Otra atracción para los jóvenes es llegar hasta la casa del
árbol y balancearse en su columpio sobre el vacío, con el Tungurahua al fondo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Baños la carretera se dirige hacia el Oriente atrapada por
escarpadas montañas que fuerzan el paso por numerosos túneles que parecen minas
por su poca luz, sus aristas rocosas y su chorreante agua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A este tramo de la carretera se le conoce como la ruta de las
cascadas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La primera que visitamos es la conocida como el Manto de la
Novia. El<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>sendero desciende entre la
espesa vegetación, dejando ver al fondo el valle del rio Pastaza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo cruzamos por un largo puente colgante.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La fina lluvia que no paraba de caer realzaba mas, si era
posible, este bello lugar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos pocos kilómetros llegamos a Rio Verde donde se
encuentra el Pailón del Diablo, la más espectacular cascada de esta ruta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta cascada es tan popular además porque ha servido de
escenario de varias películas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un soberbio y escarpado lugar, con una bruma que te cala por
el rugiente salto del agua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un puente colgante permite observarla desde enfrente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos hacia el Oriente, donde se encuentra la selva
amazónica. La carretera desciende del altiplano hacia las llanuras de la jungla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tena se encuentra a 139 km. de Baños y es la capital del la
región del Napo. Su visita no es muy interesante, salvo por un hecho histórico.
Desde aquí partió el 12 de febrero de 1542 Francisco de Orellana, para
descubrir el río Amazonas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos kilómetros de aquí se encuentran las cavernas de
Jumandy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su recorrido es una experiencia interesante, pero queda
deslucido ya que en la entrada de la cueva hay un parque acuático, con
piscinas, toboganes y música a todo volumen. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las fotografías dentro de la cueva son difíciles porque esta
sin iluminar, está prohibido usar el flash y la mayoría del recorrido es con el
agua hasta la cintura.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Manos mal que la salida de la cueva no ha perdido el encanto
selvático que le rodea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la laguna Limpiopungo ya no hay ranas. Desde hace 30 años,
estos anfibios han ido disminuyendo hasta su desaparición en los últimos años.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los especialistas no se ponen de acuerdo en las causas de este
fenómeno.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una de las teorías se basa en la degeneración de la calidad
del aire que contiene demasiadas toxinas. Otra apunta a que la piel de la rana
apenas protege de los rayos ultravioleta, cuyos niveles de radiación han
aumentado en los últimos años.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En cualquiera de los casos, parece que nos estuvieran avisando
de que los niveles de contaminación del aire están sobrepasando los límites
para la vida, igual que los canarios dan la alarma a los mineros cuando el
temido gas grisú invade las galerías.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-39568817680516078352019-10-26T08:00:00.000+02:002019-10-26T08:00:04.076+02:00Ecuador, por la costa del Pacifico.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salimos de Quito y nuestra siguiente parada, a unos 70 km.
hacia el oeste, es la pequeña población de Mindo. Entramos al anochecer, cuando
se encendían las luces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este pueblo ha apostado por el ecoturismo y según los
lugareños es la única region de Ecuador donde la superficie del bosque aumenta.
Acampamos junto al rio Canchupi, uno de los que cruzan el pueblo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente con las bicicletas nos dirigimos a la
terminal del teleférico que nos remonta hasta el bosque nuboso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde allí una canasta o tarabita de 530 metros cruza otro valle hasta donde comienza el sendero del
Santuario de las cascadas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un largo recorrido que enlaza 15 cascadas en medio de un exuberante
bosque brumoso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un soberbio escenario para los amantes de la naturaleza, donde
también tienen cabida deportes más extremos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un excelente lugar para la observación de aves, aunque
nosotros solo vimos en la lejanía un tucán de pico amarillo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de nuestro recorrido por el bosque, recogemos en la
cabina del teleférico las bicicletas e iniciamos nuestro descenso hasta el
pueblo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente visitamos el mariposario.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un interesante recorrido por la efímera vida de estos
insectos, que nacen gusanos y se transforman en coloridas mariposas, que solo
viven unas semanas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Mindo continuamos descendiendo hacia la costa por el
exuberante bosque tropical.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Poco a poco el paisaje se va transformando. Aparecen pueblos y
desaparece la selva.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ya en la llanura, aparecen los cultivos masivos de palmeras de
las que se obtiene el aceite.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque de vez en cuando todavía el paisaje nos regala estas
bellas imágenes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Anocheciendo llegamos a la playa de Atacames, de nuevo estamos
en el Pacifico. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una turística y kilométrica playa, que con la marea baja
muestra toda su belleza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos tres kilómetros más al sur se encuentra Sua, una pequeña
aldea de pescadores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La limpieza y el orden no forman parte de su día a día.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seis kilómetros después entramos a Same, una atractiva y
limpia playa de arena gris, repleta de palmeras.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Andando por su larga playa de tres kilómetros, llegamos al
pueblo pesquero de Tonchigüe, con su habitual trasiego de hombres y barcos
preparándose para hacerse a la mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La zona costera, con menos recursos, es más pobre y las
construcciones de las casas son en madera. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Mompiche no nos pudimos quedar, sus estrechas calles pegadas
al mar, no dejan lugar para estacionar nuestro camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Buscando un lugar más tranquilo junto al mar llegamos al
embarcadero donde pequeñas canoas cruzan el estrecho brazo de mar hacia la isla
Zapotal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En ella se encuentra una pequeña aldea de restaurantes,
camping y club de playa, con sus construcciones bajas de madera y tejados de
hojas de palma.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un lugar fascinante e idílico. Al atardecer la extensa playa
se diluye entre el mar y el cielo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al retirarse la marea vimos algunas estrellas de mar,
conocidas como dólar de arena o galleta de mar por su forma.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos a mediados de Junio y aunque está terminando la
estación de lluvias, todos los días caen fuertes aguaceros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por toda la costa encontramos granjas marinas donde se cría el
camarón, que con los plátanos eran las principales fuentes de ingresos del país
hasta que se encontró petróleo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos cuarenta kilómetros al sur llegamos a Pedernales. Tenemos
que suspender nuestro viaje por un problema familiar grave. Regresamos a Quito
donde dejaremos el camión para volar a España.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Decia Apsley
Cherry-Garrard, miembro de la desdichada expedición de Scott al Polo Sur:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: ES; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"> “ la
exploración no es otra cosa que la expresión física de la pasión intelectual”.</span></div>
Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-42830128915567993512019-10-12T08:00:00.000+02:002019-10-12T08:00:02.880+02:00Ecuador, de Otavalo a Quito.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de unos increíbles días de soledad y naturaleza en las
lagunas de Mojanda, regresamos a Otavalo para conocer la cascada de Peguche,
que se encuentra en la comunidad indígena de Faccha Llakta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un pequeño parque recorrido por senderos que nos llevan a
través del bosque a las cascadas, a las piscinas incaicas y a las zonas de
acampada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca de las cascadas, en lo alto de la colina que domina el
lago San Pablo esta el Parque Cóndor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es una fundación para el cuidado y rescate de aves rapaces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se desarrollan actividades educativas y de adiestramiento.
Asistimos a una exhibición de aves amaestradas en el arte de la cetrería.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro principal interés en este parque, era ver de cerca a
la más emblemática ave de Sudamérica, el cóndor de los Andes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es el ave voladora más grande del mundo, con una envergadura
que puede sobrepasar los 3 metros, puede vivir hasta los 80 años y está en
peligro de extinción en Ecuador.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Parque Cóndor se encuentra a 2.800 metros de altura y
descendiendo por las inclinadas pendientes hacia el lago de San Pablo, tuvimos
un peligroso accidente. El camión se deslizo por el barro, como si fuera una
pista de patinaje, y solo nos libro de caer al barranco el talud de la
carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después del susto nos fuimos a pasar la noche junto al
relajante lago de San Pablo, donde se reflejaba el cono volcánico del Imbabura.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí bordeamos por el sur el volcán y subimos la ladera
este por una empinada pista empedrada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas pistas de piedra es la mejor solución a las continuas
lluvias y al barro. Sin ellas no se podría acceder a la mayoría de las zonas
rurales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A 3.400 metros de altitud termina la pista empedrada y allí
decidimos acampar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente subimos a las lagunas de Cubilche. El primer
tramo discurre por los prados de las últimas tierras cultivadas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Más arriba llegamos a un bosque de pinos, donde siguen con la tala
los agricultores para ampliar sus terrenos de cultivo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque nos habían hablado muy bien de las lagunas, nos
quedamos un poco decepcionados porque en realidad no son gran cosa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo más interesante fueron las vistas de los valles
circundantes y la vida rural con las típicas casas de labranza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos la montaña y nos dirigimos a Cayambe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Teníamos necesidad de llenar el depósito de agua y preguntando
a la policía nos enviaron al parque de bomberos. Nos acogieron con gran
generosidad y no solamente nos dieron agua, sino una valiosa información de las
cosas importantes que ver en Ecuador.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí giramos hacia el oeste para conocer las ruinas de
Cochasqui. Este yacimiento arqueológico consta de 15 pirámides truncadas
cubiertas de hierba.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fueron construidas por los Caras antes de la conquista Inca. Su
principal característica es una rampa de acceso muy alargada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque es interesante, el conjunto no impresiona, se ha
escavado muy poco y solo debajo de un cobertizo podemos observar su estructura
de piedra escalonada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una manada de llamas y alpacas se encargan de cortar la hierba
y darle vida al lugar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la parte alta del yacimiento se encuentra en perfecto
estado, un tramo del antiguo camino Inca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El recorrido termina en un pequeño museo donde se exhiben la
mayoría de los objetos encontrados en el yacimiento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cincuenta kilómetros después entramos en Quito y nos dirigimos
al taller Iveco para hacerle el mantenimiento y solucionar una pérdida en el
circuito de aire.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quito se extiende 17 kilómetros, en un valle rodeado de
montañas a 2.850 metros de altura. La ciudad vieja, como aquí se le conoce, es
otra joya arquitectónica patrimonio de la humanidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su centro colonial es de los más espectaculares de América
latina. Un buen punto de partida es la plaza de la Independencia o plaza
Grande, donde se encuentra el palacio de Gobierno y la catedral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Deambular por la ciudad vieja y descubrirla en cada esquina o
rincón es un viaje al pasado colonial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salimos de Quito hacia el norte, dejando atrás la ciudad nueva.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Paramos en Rumicucho, un pequeño y poco interesante yacimiento
arqueológico precolombino.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos cinco kilómetros de aquí se encuentra la piedra
trapezoidal de 30 metros de altura, coronada por un globo terráqueo de bronce,
erigido en la misma línea del ecuador, llamado la mitad del mundo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo hacia el norte, nos asomamos al cráter del Pululahua,
de 400 metros de profundidad y cinco de diámetro, convertido en una reserva
geobotánica. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque estamos en junio y la época de las lluvias ya tendría
que haber finalizado, sigue lloviendo todos los días.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6LEwhDr-eqtqtGyG-ptg6Zlu0km_k7qBnz1H3Bmq1NPDK7SPnWRY8D4xib2vKXTpa092KVNaRbLxEgzVOq6CHo3RWDH3pJZI-c5CJfZuY3AniJ0wMbW45KQyvlEo9VSOqtnC7pw_CSA/s1600/91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="840" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6LEwhDr-eqtqtGyG-ptg6Zlu0km_k7qBnz1H3Bmq1NPDK7SPnWRY8D4xib2vKXTpa092KVNaRbLxEgzVOq6CHo3RWDH3pJZI-c5CJfZuY3AniJ0wMbW45KQyvlEo9VSOqtnC7pw_CSA/s640/91.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……………<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Quito está enclavado en un valle a 2850 m. de altitud, rodeada
de altas montañas que le aseguran un clima primaveral todo el año.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La historia de la ciudad comienza con sus primeros pobladores
precolombinos, los quitus, de donde proviene su nombre. Mas tarde se unieron a
los caras, que venían de la costa y crearon un nuevo grupo conocido como los
shyris. Sobre el 1300 se unieron a los puruhas y a finales del siglo XV el
imperio inca domina la región.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuando los españoles llegaron a Ecuador en 1526, Quito era una
i</span><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12pt;">mportante población inca al mando de Rumiñahui, un general de Atahualpa, que
prefirió arrasar la ciudad para que no cayese en manos de los nuevos
conquistadores.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sobre sus ruinas se fundó la nueva ciudad el seis de diciembre
de 1534 por Sebastián de Benalcazar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Muchos de aquellos edificios de la época colonial constituyen
el centro de la ciudad vieja, hoy Patrimonio de la Humanidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De entre todos ellos destacaríamos la iglesia de la Compañía
de Jesús. Una joya barroca, repleta de cuidados detalles. Cada centímetro de la
iglesia esta tallado y recubierto con finas laminas de oro, del que se
necesitaron 7 toneladas para cubrir sus techos, muros y altares. Para los
ecuatorianos esta es sin duda la iglesia más bonita del país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-54008502918818379462019-09-28T08:00:00.000+02:002019-09-28T08:00:05.443+02:00Ecuador, la belleza de los Andes.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La frontera de Ecuador está colapsada por una riada de
familias venezolanas en busca de nuevas oportunidades en este país. Nos lleva
dos horas completar los trámites aduaneros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cruzamos Tulcán, una importante ciudad comercial y la capital
de provincia a más altitud del país, sobre los 3.000 m.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos hacia el sur rodeados de un paisaje grandioso de
verdes, salpicado de granjas y ranchos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra primera parada la hacemos en San Gabriel, un tranquilo
pueblo de montaña, con bonitas casas pintadas de colores y calles empedradas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un agradable paseo de tres kilómetros al norte del pueblo nos
lleva hasta las cascadas de Paluz.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A cuatro kilómetros de San Gabriel, nos desviamos hacia la
Gruta de la Paz.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nosotros íbamos buscando una gruta con aguas termales y nos
encontramos con un santuario.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El río Minas ha horadado la montaña y reaparece al otro lado
en la gruta dedicada a la Virgen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De la gruta salen las aguas termales que alimentan dos
piscinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde que cruzamos la frontera, la Panamericana es una
excelente carretera, con tramos de autovía.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora desciende hasta el valle del río Chota a unos 1.565
metros y luego inicia un largo ascenso hacia Ibarra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Antes de llegar, sobre el horizonte se alza el volcán Imbabura
de 4.609 metros. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>al lago
Yaguarcocha pasamos la primera noche en Ibarra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ibarra es una encantadora ciudad colonial y multicultural,
aquí con los estudiantes de la universidad, se mezclan mestizos, indígenas del
altiplano, afro ecuatorianos…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El mercado central es un hervidero de actividad, donde se
puede encontrar casi de todo. Allí probamos uno de los platos típicos, el
hornado, un asado de cerdo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos por la Panamericana hacia el sur y nos desviamos a
la pequeña población de Cotacachi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es conocida por sus artículos de piel y cuero. En las tiendas
que se despliegan a lo largo de la calle principal se puede comprar cualquier
artículo elaborado con piel.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Era domingo y en el centro cultural celebraban la
peatonalización de su calle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí parte la carretera a la laguna de Cuicocha. Al ser
primera hora de la mañana y estar despejado de niebla, pudimos ver el volcán
Cotocachi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La laguna Cuicocha ocupa el cráter de un extinguido volcán.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El sendero que bordea el lago permite contemplarlo en toda su
magnitud, así como las impresionantes vistas del valle y las montañas que lo
rodean. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tiene un perímetro de 14 km. y se tardan unas cinco horas en
recorrerlo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo por la Panamericana llegamos a Otavalo, una pequeña
población comercial donde acuden las comunidades indígenas de los alrededores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta ciudad es conocida por sus tejedores, los telares se han
usado en esta zona durante unos 4.000 años. La plaza de los Ponchos es un
mercado permanente de sus creaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una tranquila y agradable ciudad de calles adoquinadas, donde
se mezclan blancos, mestizos e indígenas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los altos volcanes son difíciles de ver pues casi siempre
permanecen cubiertos de bruma. Hoy al atardecer, el sol ha iluminado la cima
del Imbabura de 4.609 metros, por encima de los tejados de la ciudad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Salimos de Otavalo en dirección suroeste, por una pista
empedrada que nos lleva al alto páramo de las lagunas de Mojanda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de mucho tiempo, por fin estamos en un entorno salvaje
y solitario y a la vez bellísimo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las lagunas de Mojanda están situadas a 3.700 metros de
altura. Dejamos el camión en la laguna Grande y para aclimatarnos fuimos
andando hasta la Pequeña.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El ascenso al volcán Fuya Fuya de 4.275 metros es un clásico
en esta zona.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A esta altura la escasez de oxigeno se hace notar y endurece
la subida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegando a la cima, la niebla se nos echa encima, cubriendo el
paisaje y privandonos de las espectaculares vistas que rodean el volcán.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente, otra bonita excursión nos lleva al otro lado
de la laguna, donde se encuentra el refugio. Ahora cerrado porque las fuertes
lluvias han anegado el camino.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde la otra orilla, hoy contemplamos sin niebla, la cumbre
del Fuya Fuya y nuestro diminuto camión en las orillas del lago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca del refugio se encuentra la laguna Negra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En raras ocasiones, cuando se cruza una frontera, percibimos
un cambio notorio, pues el paisaje suele ser el mismo, las gentes pertenecen a
las mismas etnias, tribus o culturas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No es el caso entre Colombia y Ecuador, y aunque se dan todas
las premisas anteriores, algo cambia en el ambiente y la sensación general es
de estar en otro lugar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El buen estado de las carreteras es lo primero que notamos. Después
cuando hablamos con la gente nos transmiten una sensación de tranquilidad,
educación y buen rollo, que se traduce en una menor alerta de inseguridad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También han desaparecido la mayoría de las alambradas y
podemos acampar más libremente. Cuanto echábamos de menos la soledad de las
montañas, la paz y la tranquilidad junto a un lago o el rumor incesante
acampados en la ribera de un río.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ecuador es seis veces más pequeño que Colombia, pero en cambio
ofrece seis veces más lugares interesantes que su vecino del norte.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ecuador nos ha cautivado desde el primer momento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-58829521545700870772019-09-14T08:00:00.000+02:002019-09-14T08:00:04.427+02:00Colombia, últimos días.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos en la zona de San Agustín visitando otros yacimientos
arqueológicos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una buena caminata con espectaculares vistas sobre la profunda
garganta del río Magdalena, nos lleva hasta la Chaquira, con divinidades
esculpidas en la ladera de la montaña.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El camino discurre entre distintas haciendas y en una de ellas
nos paramos a observar como entrenan a unos gallos de pelea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los preparan en resistencia para que aguanten los diez minutos
que dura el asalto. Ahora los espolones los llevan cubiertos para que no se
dañen. En Colombia están protegidas por ley las peleas de gallos y las corridas
de toros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo nuestro recorrido llegamos al Tablón, donde se
encuentran cinco estatuas. Una de ellas de 2,20 m.de altura cuyos ornamentos señalan
el nivel técnico de sus talladores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí nos dirigimos al Estrecho del río Magdalena, y
aunque solo nos separan seis kilómetros, el asfalto da paso a una mala pista de
tierra o destapao como dicen ellos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos al anochecer y aparcamos junto a la carretera
rodeados de montañas y un denso bosque cubierto de niebla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Estrecho es una agosta garganta rocosa de 2,2 metros que
comprime al río en un soberbio entorno.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos a San Agustín y tomamos la carretera a San José de
Isnos. Paramos en el camino para ver el Salto de Mortiño.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un salto de agua de 170 metros en un encajonado cañón.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En San José de Isnos nos desviamos al parque arqueológico del
Alto de los Ídolos, en un hermoso paraje verde acompañado del imponente río
Magdalena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un camino empedrado nos lleva por las distintas tumbas
megalíticas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También hay numerosas estatuas, que como guardianes se
situaban al frente de las tumbas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunos sarcófagos conservan las tapas de piedra esculpida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De aquí nos vamos al siguiente grupo arqueológico llamado el
Alto de las Piedras. Por el camino los campesinos están recolectando la caña de
azúcar y la llevan a los molinos para sacar su jugo azucarado que transformaran
en panela, que es como un ladrillo de azúcar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Alto de las Piedras pertenece como los anteriores al
periodo Clásico Regional ( 1 d.C. al 900 d.C.)y vuelve<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a ser un espacio sagrado con varios
montículos funerarios.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo la misma pista llegamos al pueblo Salto de Bordones,
donde nos instalamos en la plaza de la iglesia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La cascada de Bordones está catalogada como una de las caídas
de agua más imponentes del sur de América, con una altura de 400 metros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Descendemos por un camino embarrado por las últimas lluvias,
con vistas espectaculares de la cascada y de las montañas que rodean el valle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El camino cerca de la poza se hace impracticable y no podemos
acceder a ella después de una hora de descenso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siempre que nos adentramos en el bosque nuboso encontramos
numerosas escolopendras.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de la caminata un merecido descanso con un magnífico
jugo de guanábana con leche. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos esta zona arqueológica y nos dirigimos a Popayán. Al
principio la carreta está en buen estado y antes de adentrarnos en el páramo
pasamos un control militar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos kilómetros después el asfalto desaparece y se convierte
en una pista horrorosa, además estamos a mediados de mayo en plena época
de lluvias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hay bastante tráfico de camiones y la pista es muy estrecha.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No podemos orillarnos pues las cunetas de barro no aguantan el
peso del camión y son una trampa. Como se ve en la foto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por todo esto tardamos más de tres horas en hacer 38
kilómetros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sobrepasados los 3.200 metros de altitud la selva nubosa deja
paso al páramo, con un clima riguroso y una flora limitada, que presenta un
aspecto extraño e interesante.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Conforme la carretera desciende aparecen otra vez los verdes
pastos de las zonas habitadas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Popayán es la ciudad colonial más importante después de
Cartagena. Entrando visitamos la Ermita de Belén, que es la más antigua de la
ciudad, erigida en 1.546.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Popayán se la conoce como la Ciudad Blanca por sus fachadas
encaladas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fundada en 1537 por Sebastián de Belalcazar, se convirtió en
una importante parada entre Cartagena y Quito.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Paseando por su casco antiguo descubrimos la riqueza que esta urbe
tuvo en otros tiempos, plagada de Iglesias, casas señoriales, conventos…..hoy
muchos de ellos acondicionados como museos y hoteles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de un mes y medio en Colombia, ha llegado el momento
de cambiar de país. Nos dirigimos hacia la frontera con Ecuador, siguiendo la
cadena de los Andes con sus bellos paisajes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como en toda Colombia los peajes de carretera se siguen
sucediendo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pasamos Pasto y en Ipiales, ya pegados a la frontera, nos
desviamos hacia el Santuario de Las Lajas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la aldea de Las Lajas se encuentra este extraño y a la vez
espectacular santuario.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De construcción neogótica, a horcajadas de un profundo cañón, está emplazado
en la roca donde se apareció la Virgen. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En los alrededores vemos las primeras llamas de los Andes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La última noche en Colombia la pasamos en Ipiales, una fea y
comercial ciudad. La sensación de inseguridad al pasear por sus calles hizo que
durmiéramos en un parqueadero, como le llaman aquí.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A siete kilómetros está la frontera con Ecuador en el puente
de Rumichaca. Los trámites de salida fueron muy rápidos y sencillos. Sellar el
pasaporte y entregar el documento de importación temporal del vehículo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Colombia es un enorme país, con una extensión equiparable a
Francia, España y Portugal juntos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de recorrer 3.100 km sabemos que sus carreteras
nacionales están en un aceptable estado, no ocurre lo mismo con sus secundarias
que son una caja de sorpresas. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nos ha
llamado la atención la cantidad de vallas de espinos que hay por todo el país y
que bordean la carretera imposibilitando cualquier parada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemos pasado un total de 35 peajes que han sumado 102 euros.
Al ser un camión vivienda y solo tener cuatro ruedas<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>paga la tarifa de un turismo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El precio del gasoil varía según la provincia, y puede oscilar
entre 7000 a 9500 pesos el galón. Nuestra media resulto de 0,75 euros/litro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque la imagen de Colombia es de un país inseguro, nosotros
no hemos tenido ningún problema, también es cierto que hemos actuado con
precaución y pernoctado en sitios seguros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con respecto al turismo a Colombia le queda mucho por hacer,
empezando por llegar a acuerdos entre el gobierno, los propietarios de los
terrenos y las comunidades indígenas. Todos quieren sacar su tajada, pero sin
hacer nada a cambio, como mejorar caminos, señalizarlos o adecuar
instalaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-57294684812938670752019-08-30T08:00:00.000+02:002019-08-30T08:00:00.716+02:00Colombia, yacimientos precolombinos.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de una interesante y agradable estancia en Silvia nos
dirigimos hacia el Parque nacional Arqueológico de Tierradentro. La carretera
hasta Totoró, como ocurre en casi todas las secundarias, transcurre por tramos
de tierra y asfalto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí hasta San Andrés de Pisambalá, la carretera se
eleva pasando por altos páramos, lo que se conoce por el bosque alto andino,
que permanece casi siempre cubierto de niebla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas tierras altas que rondan los 4.000 metros han sido el
refugio de muchas especies animales. Ahora con la sobreexplotación de los
terrenos algunos están en peligro de extinción como el cóndor andino, el tapir
de montaña, el oso de anteojos, los venados y el puma, entre otros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Circulábamos por una excelente carretera y de pronto por unas
avalanchas y obras se convierte en un barrizal estrecho y peligroso sobre un
abismo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La niebla y la lluvia persisten a lo largo del día, dejando de
vez en cuando ventanas que nos permiten ver el soberbio paisaje que nos rodea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pasado el pueblo de Inzá paramos para ver los túneles de la Pirámide.
(N2 32 58.5 W76 03 17.3) Donde comienza el camino hay una casa construida en
bambú. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El empinado sendero termina en una última casa donde se
encuentran las cuevas horadadas en la montaña.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Son unas catacumbas que sirvieron de enterramientos a unos
antiguos pobladores, de los que no se sabe casi nada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se cree que fueron excavadas entre los siglos VII a IX.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde las cuevas se domina el valle el río Ullucos y la
serpenteante carretera por la que continuamos. Unos kilómetros después nos
desviamos por una estrecha pista a San Andrés de Pisimbalá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El único lugar con espacio para aparcar en las inmediaciones
del parque arqueológico de Tierradentro es el hotel El Refugio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tierradentro es el segundo yacimiento arqueológico más
importante de Colombia. El recorrido comienza por los museos arqueológico y
etnográfico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí parte un sendero circular que discurre por las
montañas y enlaza los cinco principales yacimientos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Posee la mayor concentración de tumbas subterráneas
monumentales de la época prehispánica, por lo que fue declarado Patrimonio de
la Humanidad por la Unesco en el año 2005.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Todos los hipogeos presentan la misma morfología, escaleras
verticales que descienden hacia una cámara mortuoria con pilares que refuerzan
la cavidad. Dentro se ponían las urnas funerarias. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La necrópolis Segovia es la más importante del recorrido, con
28 tumbas, algunas de ellas con ornamentación todavía bien conservada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveCrR32VX9zGKJ7UYIPAekuq2nfEqS1182iTnGVWgpxBi-xSaSM3Dj_kzbxSBaa-LQcYh-G_0JYGjHIg9HVSCaaw8nUipZISk0gjxtgJU2JON_o8pba2I2BSKiI6662JlczCSdbQTTfY/s1600/36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveCrR32VX9zGKJ7UYIPAekuq2nfEqS1182iTnGVWgpxBi-xSaSM3Dj_kzbxSBaa-LQcYh-G_0JYGjHIg9HVSCaaw8nUipZISk0gjxtgJU2JON_o8pba2I2BSKiI6662JlczCSdbQTTfY/s640/36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas estructuras subterráneas fueron construidas entre el 600
y el 900 d.C. Es un rasgo exclusivo de esta región aunque poco se sabe de sus
constructores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El recorrido ocupa entre 5 a 7 horas y pasa por el pueblo de
San Andrés de Pisambalá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aqui coincidimos con unos viajeros lituanos y sorprendentemente con un camión español, el de Carlos y Maggie.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al día siguiente salimos hacia La Plata por una pista paralela al río Páez.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y como viene siendo habitual en las carreteras secundarias,
alternamos tramos de asfalto y tierra de una manera aleatoria e incomprensible
para nosotros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En Paicol, con un almuerzo tradicional nos despedimos de Carlos y Maggie,
llevamos rumbos opuestos. Ellos se dirigen hacia al norte y nosotros hacia el
sur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora por la nacional 45, la carretera mejora ostensiblemente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemos cambiado de valle y seguimos el curso del río Magdalena
y el embalse el Quimbo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cada vez que aparecemos en una carretera nacional volvemos
irremediablemente a los peajes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro destino es San Agustín donde se encuentra el principal
parque arqueológico de Colombia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una extensa zona donde se concentran unas 130 estatuas e
hipogeos, de una cultura que no tenia lenguaje escrito y que desapareció muchos
siglos antes de<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>la llegada de los
españoles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El recorrido comienza de nuevo en el museo arqueológico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un bonito y cuidado paseo discurre por los distintos
yacimientos que conforman este parque y que tardamos en recorrer unas tres
horas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la fuente de Lavapatas fueron esculpidas, en la roca del
lecho del rio, diversas figuras humanas, reptiles y anfibios.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas esculturas y restos funerarios fueron creadas en un
periodo que abarca desde el año 1 al 900 d.C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque el rio Magdalena no es el más largo de Colombia, si es
el más importante. Su cuenca ocupa el 24% del territorio continental y en ella
vive el 80% de la población, donde se produce el 85% del PIB.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nace en las proximidades de San Agustín y recorre el país de
sur a norte, desembocando en el mar Caribe en Barranquilla, después de recorrer
1.500 km.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue desde tiempos precolombinos la ruta de incursión hacia el
interior de lo que hoy es Colombia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El descubrimiento por parte de los conquistadores españoles,
se le atribuye a Rodrigo de Bastidas en el año 1.501, pero fue Gerónimo de Melo
quien realizó la primera incursión en 1.519.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue muy importante para la corona española ya que era la única
vía que unía Santa Fe de Bogotá con Cartagena de Indias y por ende con Europa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la actualidad el Magdalena es navegable desde la costa hasta
Honda que se considera el puerto de Bogotá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-40761857139018697692019-08-15T12:02:00.002+02:002019-08-15T12:02:44.064+02:00Colombia, la zona cafetera.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bogotá, con ocho millones de habitantes, es una de esas macro
ciudades por las que no nos gusta transitar. La bordeamos, e<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>iniciamos el descenso por un interminable
puerto, que nos lleva desde los 3000 metros a los 225 en el fondo del valle por
donde discurre el rio Magdalena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos la eterna primavera de las montañas y el termómetro
asciende paulatinamente hasta casi marcar unos sofocantes 40º cuando cruzamos
el rio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí comienza de nuevo un lento y sinuoso puerto con más
de mil curvas, que nos conduce a lo alto de la cordillera Occidental.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Alto de Letras marca el punto más alto del puerto a 3.710
metros. Desde aquí la carretera desciende hacia Manizales, el punto más
septentrional del eje cafetero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Antes de entrar a Manizales nos desviamos hacia las termales
Tierra Viva. Pensábamos que nos habíamos equivocado de camino, pues todo los
que nos rodeaba era una zona industrial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero un kilómetro después de nuevo estamos en plena
naturaleza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las termales Tierra Viva están formadas por tres piscinas
hechas en roca, rodeadas por un hermoso jardín.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la autopista del café hay unas pequeñas áreas de servicio
ubicadas en promontorios con bonitas vistas de los alrededores donde está
permitido pasar la noche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos en el corazón de la zona cafetera y no podemos dejar
pasar la oportunidad de visitar y conocer una de estas haciendas. Un estrecho
camino nos conduce a la Hacienda Guayabal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Donde nos explican todo el proceso del café que termina con la
degustación de sus distintos tostados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después hacemos un recorrido por la finca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el año hay dos cosechas donde se van recolectando los granos
que ya han madurado, amarillos y rojos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las flores del café son muy parecidas a las flores del azahar.
Conforme se van recolectando unos granos van saliendo las flores de la
siguiente cosecha.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Terminando el recorrido pasamos por las dependencias donde se
lava y se seca el grano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La hacienda está rodeada de un colorido jardín, donde vienen
los colibrís atraídos por el agua azucarada.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Dispone de alojamiento y restaurante.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde que entramos en Colombia vemos a lo largo de la
carretera grupos de gente andando con bolsas, maletas…..son venezolanos en
busca de una vida mejor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los jeep Willys siguen siendo el principal medio de transporte
en las áreas rurales de toda Colombia especialmente en la zona cafetera. Estos
clásicos y robustos vehículos de la II guerra mundial llegaron aquí en la
década de 1950 y todavía hoy siguen rodando.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos hacia el sur y cruzamos Pereira para dirigirnos al
Valle de Cocora.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unos veinte kilómetros por una estrecha carretera nos conducen
a la pequeña aldea de Cocora, donde todo se mueve en torno al turismo,
restaurantes, pequeños hoteles, camping, alquiler de caballos, guías……<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El valle de Cocora es de una gran belleza y hay numerosos
senderos para recorrerlo. Nosotros hicimos uno que partiendo de la
piscifactoría, en un recorrido circular de unas cinco horas, termina de nuevo
en la aldea.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La primera parte del camino discurre a través de verdes
praderas y la segunda se adentra en un denso bosque nuboso, siguiendo el curso
del río Quindío. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después ascendemos hasta la finca de la Montaña donde el
bosque nuboso se transforma en otro de coníferas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El camino desciende hasta los miradores de Cocora donde
destacan las palmeras de cera, que es árbol nacional de Colombia, y<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>la palmera más alta del mundo que alcanza los
60 metros de altura.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Retornamos a la Panamericana continuando hacia el sur, ahora
tenemos unos 350 kilómetros dominados por un extenso valle con inmensas
plantaciones de caña de azúcar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El transporte de la caña se realiza por carretera en largos
remolques llamados los trenes de la caña.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro próximo destino es el pueblo de Silvia a unos 25
kilómetros de la general y a unos 2.500 metros de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Otro pintoresco pueblo de montaña, de casas pintadas de
colores alrededor de la plaza Mayor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hacemos coincidir nuestra llegada con el martes, que es el día
de mercado y a él acuden los misak o guambianos, uno de los grupos indígenas
más tradicionales de Colombia. Tienen su propia lengua, son excelentes
tejedores y sus técnicas de cultivo son rudimentarias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Todos llevan sus ropas tradicionales, los hombres van con
faldas azules de borde rosa y bombines.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las mujeres siempre ocupadas hilando lana con prendas tejidas
a mano y collares de cuentas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Todos acuden desde las aldeas cercanas en las chivas, los
autobuses típicos de colorines adaptados para transportar todo tipo de enseres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una bonita excursión es subir hasta la laguna donde se tiene
una panorámica de todo el valle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A la vuelta pasamos por el estanque artificial con forma de
pez que hay en un extremo del pueblo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En nuestro paso por la Hacienda Cafetera aprendimos muchas
cosas sobre el café, introducido por los jesuitas españoles en el siglo XVI.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se cultiva en altitud media de 1.500 metros y con una
temperatura alrededor de 22º.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La planta del café tiene una vida máxima de 21 años de los
cuales solo 15 son productivos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cuando madura el grano su color es rojo o amarillo de
pendiendo del sol y la sombra. Se recolecta a mano y un buen recolector puede
llegar a los 400 kg. al día.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El primer paso es quitar la capa exterior y lavarlo para suprimir
el azúcar. Después se seca a una temperatura de 60º.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A continuación se descascarilla y se selecciona por tamaño.
Los granos más grandes son de sabor más suave y los pequeños más intenso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por último en el país donde se consume se realiza el tostado a
una temperatura promedio entre 190º y 200º y entre 15 y 20 minutos. Básicamente
existe tres tipos de tostado suave, medio y fuerte. En España se realiza el
último.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El café torrefacto se obtiene mezclándolo con azúcar, por eso
se forma la espuma en la taza. El tostado natural también da espuma pero esta
desaparece al poco tiempo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-22617541150112121392019-07-22T09:19:00.002+02:002019-07-22T09:19:40.203+02:00Colombia, recorriendo la cordillera occidental.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde la cascada de Los caballeros descendemos por la pista
buscando el asfalto que encontramos en el pueblo de Suaita.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La temperatura primaveral con fuertes lluvias, que casi
siempre caen al anochecer, fomenta una exuberante vegetación y unos ríos
tumultuosos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siempre hemos dicho que el mayor peligro de un viajero está en
la carretera. Algunas veces por conductores temerarios, otras por encuentros
fortuitos, los bulliciosos cruces de pueblos o, como es frecuente en este país,
los hundimientos en la vía por la inestabilidad del terreno. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo nuestra ruta llegamos a Chiquinquirá, capital
religiosa de Colombia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En su basílica se encuentra la Virgen del Rosario. Fue pintada
por el artista español Alonso de Narváez hacia 1555 siendo la pintura
colombiana más antigua documentada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pintura comenzó a desvanecerse debido a la mala calidad de
los materiales y a la humedad. Fue abandonada en un almacén hasta el 26 de
diciembre de 1586 cuando unas piadosas mujeres que rezaban ante ella vieron que
milagrosamente recuperaba su color original. Desde entonces su fama ha ido en
aumento y los milagros atribuidos a la virgen se multiplican.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí nos dirigimos a Villa de Leiva y paramos unos
kilómetros antes en el Museo paleontológico del fósil. Aquí se encuentra el
Kronosaurus, una cría de reptil marino de 7 metros de longitud, que data de
hace 120 millones de años. Fue encontrada en este mismo lugar pero
desgraciadamente no lo pudimos ver por las reformas que se están haciendo en el
museo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Villa de Leiva es otra joya de arquitectura colonial que se
mantiene casi intacta desde sus orígenes en 1572, cuando fue fundada por Hernán
Suárez de Villalobos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su plaza mayor, pavimentada con enormes adoquines, es una de
las más grandes de América. En ella destaca su sencilla iglesia parroquial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En una de las esquinas esta la casa de Juan de Castellanos,
que hoy alberga un café y un restaurante. Con un patio interior magníficamente
restaurado, donde un busto de él conmemora el IV aniversario de la fundación de
esta villa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un gusto pasear por las tranquilas calles empedradas,
contemplando las bonitas fachadas y sus cuidados balcones de madera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También aquí tuvimos la suerte de encontrar un buen
aparcamiento cerca del centro, ya que en estos angostos pueblos es difícil
hasta circular por ellos. (N5 38 10.8 W73 31 13.7)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El sábado es día de mercado, una buena oportunidad para
abastecerse de fruta y verdura. También hay pequeños puestos donde se prepara
comida, como este que ofrece chorizos y morcillas (que como las de Burgos son
con arroz), aunque su sabor difiere bastante del nuestro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A seis km. del pueblo se encuentra el Observatorio Solar. En este
parque arqueológico que data de hace 4.000 años, quedan los restos de un
rectángulo de monolitos que indican los movimientos del sol y la luna.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siglos más tarde este valle fue la tierra de los indios
Muiscas y este entorno lo consideraron sagrado y erigieron multitud de símbolos
fálicos como culto a la fertilidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Volviendo del parque arqueológico pasamos junto a la casa de
terracota, una curiosa construcción.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al otro lado de la villa, saliendo hacia Tunja hay unas
pinturas rupestres. Dejamos el camión donde empieza el camino ( N5 35 18.8 W73
31 03.2). Después de una caminata de una hora bajando por una pronunciada
pendiente, cruzando el prado y el rio, llegamos bajo los farallones de piedra
donde se encuentran las pinturas. (N5 35 33.8 W73 31 00.6)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro siguiente objetivo son las minas de sal de Nemocón.
Dejamos la flamante autovía para desviarnos al pueblo por una polvorosa pista
de tierra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con las últimas luces del día nos aparcamos junto a la mina y
recorremos el pueblo.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La mina de sal de Nemocón empezó a explotarse hace más de 500
años, pero desde hace unos 38 años solo se dedica al turismo.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los efectos de luz en el interior son espectaculares,
convirtiendo a estas grandes salas subterráneas en catedrales de piedra.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Solo se visita el primer nivel, ya que los otros dos están
inundados. Un recorrido al interior de la tierra por altas galerías.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunas zonas con agua dan la sensación de un abismo profundo,
cuando solo están reflejando el techo de la caverna.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La mina tiene un valor añadido con el escenario del refugio
donde se rodó la película “ Los 33” , la tragedia ocurrida en la mina chilena,
con tiene como protagonista a Antonio Banderas.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También se ha recreado la perforación con la llegada de la
cápsula.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el exterior se visita un pequeño pero interesante museo
antropológico, donde hay entre otras cosas, restos de cráneos y colmillos de
mastodonte.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Así como restos de dinosaurios marinos que vivieron aquí hace
alrededor de 140 millones de años. Aunque estamos a 2000 metros de altura, en
aquellos tiempos, estas montañas eran el fondo del mar.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos Nemocón, bordeamos Bogotá y tomamos la ruta 50 hacia
la Ruta Cafetera.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas de carretera.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…….<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos avanzando hacia el interior de Colombia, tratando de
entender y descubrir esta nación, que como todas tiene sus luces y sus sombras.
<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pronto vemos un pueblo amable y tolerante, que se refleja en
su modo de conducir, a veces caótico, donde se perdonan con total condescendencia
las continuas infracciones de los usuarios.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">También descubrimos un turismo que va en aumento, del que todo
el mundo quiere sacar su tajada.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Si visitas unas cascadas ,un río o un lago te encontraras que
el único sitio que hay para aparcar es particular y tienes que pagar, si el
camino cruza una finca, también esta exige su cuota de paso y algunas veces
también la cascada el río o el lago son particulares y de nuevo se paga.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tampoco hemos ido a ningún parque nacional, pues aparte de la
entrada, para hacer un recorrido, aunque sea corto, es necesario contar con un
guía, lo que encarece en exceso una pequeña excursión de unas horas.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "comic sans ms"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos ha llamado la atención las omnipresentes alambradas de
espino, las hay por todas lados, pegadas a la carretera donde es imposible
orillarse para hacer una foto, o rodeando un lago o siguiendo el curso de un
río…….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-45566387845982384452019-07-01T12:58:00.003+02:002019-07-01T12:58:30.797+02:00Colombia, de la costa caribeña al altiplano.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En marzo regresamos de España e iniciamos los trámites para el
traslado del camión de Panamá a Colombia. Nuestra agente Tea Kalmbach nos
indica los pasos a seguir (los explicaremos en los Filopensamientos al final)
que terminan depositando el camión en el puerto de Colón.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nosotros volamos a Cartagena para esperar allí la llegada del
camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estos días los ocupamos en visitar la impresionante ciudad
colonial, patrimonio de la humanidad, que es Cartagena de Indias.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es la reina indiscutible de la costa caribeña, rebosante de
leyendas y exquisitamente conservada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue fundada en 1533 por Pedro de Heredia, convirtiéndose
enseguida en el principal puerto español de América. Las riquezas que acumulaba
fueron codiciadas por famosos piratas como Francis Drake <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>o marinos británicos como Edward Vernon que
asedio la cuidad en 1741 y que Blas de Lezo capitaneo heroicamente su defensa
con solo 2.500 hombres frente a 25.000 soldados ingleses y una flota de 186 buques.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de unos penosos trámites de tres días conseguimos
sacar el camión del puerto.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra primera noche la pasamos en la única zona libre de
acampada que hay en Cartagena, a las espaldas del Hotel Hilton.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La Nueva Cartagena se extiende por esta zona de playas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde Cartagena nos dirigimos al norte por la carretera que
bordea la costa del Caribe. Nuestra siguiente parada, a unos 100 km., es la
playa de Puerto Velero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una tranquila bahía, de aguas poco profundas y viento constante
ideal para practicar el kite-surf.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pasada la ciudad de Barranquilla cruzamos el río Magdalena,
uno de los más caudalosos de Colombia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta fotografía podría definir perfectamente este país, en la
carretera se cruza una flamante furgoneta Mercedes con un aguador en su carro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia Santa Marta paramos en Playa Salgado. Por
aquí se encuentran las mejores playas de Colombia y han surgido numerosas
urbanizaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las elevadas temperaturas, tanto de día como de noche, nos
hacen abandonar la costa para dirigirnos al interior montañoso, por la nacional
45 dirección Bogotá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta nacional tiene tramos de autopista que se alternan con
tramos de carretera de una vía o cruces de pueblos abarrotados. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">600 km. separan la costa de la capital de la provincia de
Santander, Bucaramanga a 1000 metros de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí a San Gil es uno de los más
espectaculares tramos de carretera del norte de Colombia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El cañón de Chicamocha marca este imponente paso de montaña
con vistas soberbias sobre el valle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una de las características al viajar por carretera en este
país son los continuos peajes que se suceden tanto en autovías como en
carreteras nacionales. Tenemos la suerte de que tratan el camión como un
automóvil por ser particular y tener solo 4 ruedas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En San Gil nos desviamos hacia Barichara, pueblo colonial
español de calles adoquinadas y edificios encalados con techos de tejas rojas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegamos en Viernes Santo y turistas venidos de todo el país
llenaban sus calles con un aire entre festivo y religioso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En este pueblo de solo 7.000 habitantes destaca la Catedral de
la Inmaculada Concepción construida en piedra de arenisca roja.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fue fundada en 1705 por el capitán español Francisco Pradilla.
Su belleza natural, su clima templado y su ambiente bohemio han sido su
principal reclamo turístico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde Barichara sale un camino empedrado de cinco kilómetros
que lo une con Guane, un agradable paseo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En este pequeño pueblo destaca su plaza con la iglesia de
Santa Lucía y el museo paleontológico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el museo hay una colección de fósiles y objetos de los
guanes, los habitantes originarios de estas tierras. Destaca una momia de 700
años, que enterraban en tinajas de barro, así como unos cráneos que los guanes,
a base de tablillas, deformaban para alargarlos como símbolo de belleza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos a San Gil donde nos desviamos ahora por la
carretera de Charala. A unos 22 km. se encuentran las cascadas de Juan Curi.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Treinta minutos nos lleva hacer el sendero que, entre la densa
vegetación, asciende hasta la poza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJTfwywWIpQ1oTFyto1xEMT6nUHRTwjnqFBSYDW_ZwEY3AS0Bguv4joD7mY1Nh01-_qzyoWObMgrrKRiPXR_cRYHBliorpmirzEGXRzXEvi-kGgk2Sk_7Bp-dxcQTjp_iAQpeYIQ9mgkE/s1600/44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJTfwywWIpQ1oTFyto1xEMT6nUHRTwjnqFBSYDW_ZwEY3AS0Bguv4joD7mY1Nh01-_qzyoWObMgrrKRiPXR_cRYHBliorpmirzEGXRzXEvi-kGgk2Sk_7Bp-dxcQTjp_iAQpeYIQ9mgkE/s640/44.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta espectacular cascada de 180 metros se precipita sobre dos
pozas donde es posible el baño. Hoy como el río viene muy crecido no está
permitido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De nuevo tenemos que volver a San Gil para tomar la nacional
hacia Bogotá. En el pueblo de Oiba nos desviamos hacia Guadalupe rodeados de
grandes montañas y valles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La carretera que conduce hacia las Gachas se convierte en una
pista de tierra con algunos tramos angostos y tortuosos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un bonito y relajante paseo campestre por una verde campiña
nos lleva a la quebrada de las Gachas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por donde discurre un río poco profundo de aguas rojizas,
debido a los minerales que contiene.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En el lecho de roca roja hay decenas de pozas para darse un
baño. Algunas alcanzan los tres metros de profundidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Gracias al turismo, en la zona han prosperado pequeños hoteles
y restaurantes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pista continua curveando entre densa vegetación y algunas
veces nos deja ver el soberbio paisaje.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra próxima parada es<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>la cascada Los Caballeros, donde acampamos en un pequeño prado. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es la cascada más impresionante de la zona, el río se
precipita por un cortado de 90 metros de altura, escalonado en tres tramos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo mejor de todo es la excursión que nos lleva hasta lo alto
de la misma cruzando cafetales y pasando por detrás del primer tramo de la
cascada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la cumbre, donde el río se precipita al vacío, tenemos unas
magníficas vistas del valle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El transporte del vehículo de Colón a Cartagena se puede hacer
en RoRo, que solo tiene una salida al mes o en contenedor que sale todas las
semanas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es necesario contactar con un agente de aduanas, en nuestro
caso fue Tea Kalmbach, que nos informa de los pasos a seguir: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Inspección vehicular en Ciudad de Panamá. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Coordenadas de la DIJ: N 8.96543 W 79.54694</span><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Ir al puerto de Manzanillo en Colón, a
la naviera para recoger el Bill of landing. N 9.36390º W 70.87810º</span><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Ir a la aduana para tramitar la salida
y sellar el pasaporte. N 9.34607º W 79.87827º</span><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Volver a la sección RoRo del puerto e ingresar el
vehículo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hacer el pago a la naviera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El barco portacontenedores sale todos los sábados y la fecha
límite para ingresar el vehículo en el puerto es el miércoles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El lunes siguiente comenzamos los trámites para sacar el
camión del puerto en Cartagena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ir a la oficina de la naviera a recoger las llaves
y la Bill of landing, en el puerto Compas Cartagena. N 10.39616º W 75.52325º<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2 2-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De allí a la DIAN a presentar toda la
documentación y te asignan un inspector. N 10.409101º W 75.533498º<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3 3-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con la copia de la DIAN a la Sociedad Portuaria
donde está el inspector. Te prepara la factura del puerto y se paga en un banco
en la misma oficina. Se hace la inspección del vehículo y se toman fotos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4 4-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con las fotos se vuelve a la DIAN para que libere
el documento.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Comic Sans MS";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5 5-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Volver al puerto a sacar el vehículo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los trámites en Panamá fueron relativamente sencillos, pero en
Cartagena se hacen mucho más pesados, las oficinas están distantes unas de
otras y hay que ir varias veces a cada sitio y nos ocuparon tres días
completos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-31821718373587042522019-06-11T14:59:00.003+02:002019-06-11T14:59:41.176+02:00Panamá.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El paso fronterizo de Paso Canoas es un poco caótico como es
la tónica general en todas las fronteras de Centroamérica. Hay que empezar
haciendo el seguro obligatorio del camión que cuesta 25$, igual para todo tipo
de vehículo y terminar con la fumigación<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>8$.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDBNpMQxW0N6tQcxzjGJqoW7UNzwQder8WcD35r0pmUHbllwOQ3DGDWzJVHLKVjx7jEhyphenhyphenSSleU-z5218FRJaY89TaaQQs_AG_wMsgx-0TlOrIGtLitrzP37ak-xf7xcBcYhRODBS6IHQ/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="611" data-original-width="1280" height="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDDBNpMQxW0N6tQcxzjGJqoW7UNzwQder8WcD35r0pmUHbllwOQ3DGDWzJVHLKVjx7jEhyphenhyphenSSleU-z5218FRJaY89TaaQQs_AG_wMsgx-0TlOrIGtLitrzP37ak-xf7xcBcYhRODBS6IHQ/s640/1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>La primera sensación
que tenemos es que las carreteras<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>están
en mejor estado que en los países precedentes, la Panamericana que lo cruza es
una autovía y aunque no es perfecta, es la mejor desde Estados Unidos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8h6EXuE6Wmp8ysx4jd3EMG8tNlZmtrE47HxmjsTeoGCdEH3vaYBKMMleFWxY-Y9Wm7k7M_tlLU5jeftOmmFomP-GOqvuFw2cr96docEijFVUw2ElTJsV1P80vytH4Z4_fKsSSAVgXGis/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="1280" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8h6EXuE6Wmp8ysx4jd3EMG8tNlZmtrE47HxmjsTeoGCdEH3vaYBKMMleFWxY-Y9Wm7k7M_tlLU5jeftOmmFomP-GOqvuFw2cr96docEijFVUw2ElTJsV1P80vytH4Z4_fKsSSAVgXGis/s640/2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la ciudad de David nos desviamos hacia el norte para ir a
Caldera, a sus aguas termales. Tuvimos que hacer a pie los últimos 3 km. ya que
dudábamos que el puente colgante aguantara el peso del camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tPVaIGIH-OS0q-Zx7Tb26RH-jebhenUwkGWeLCtRtFSPnNhCWFFJ8LF2wHhw_cqbErc8wHe7TiK6TPkeD0cEopjg4YyCogQ791JXUCpVSTd_uMCoV8QlPdcNtLwy3ZjRuBEFJPQx2b0/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tPVaIGIH-OS0q-Zx7Tb26RH-jebhenUwkGWeLCtRtFSPnNhCWFFJ8LF2wHhw_cqbErc8wHe7TiK6TPkeD0cEopjg4YyCogQ791JXUCpVSTd_uMCoV8QlPdcNtLwy3ZjRuBEFJPQx2b0/s640/3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcg1ACookbSkLJqKEXjsE1TNPkw2vvDxNnNwVjPZiSc6Faa5Sik0WJsbDfywICXQ4k2K5RvcAjQpWEMtaboYMxhSwKzGzR-a58uTY92UkKwUcHoeQ2e9GzzLknKfqci5Hmc9WcMUpms5A/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="1280" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcg1ACookbSkLJqKEXjsE1TNPkw2vvDxNnNwVjPZiSc6Faa5Sik0WJsbDfywICXQ4k2K5RvcAjQpWEMtaboYMxhSwKzGzR-a58uTY92UkKwUcHoeQ2e9GzzLknKfqci5Hmc9WcMUpms5A/s640/4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto al rio Chiriquí se encuentran las pozas termales. Están
dentro de una propiedad privada, son bastante rústicos y se pagan unos dólares
por su uso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnHRzLtgEVeOrKOPcE003T30nAM9nF-B7DIw9o6AmHPvi4xw2BLRYfNqY5aec3kJkGzNYS7brkYIzVtoKP8WRQDrW15zTIFXISspWVOQqEHZIWy5F3B3zo60PFXsEOXd9cd2wdsnTDuPg/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnHRzLtgEVeOrKOPcE003T30nAM9nF-B7DIw9o6AmHPvi4xw2BLRYfNqY5aec3kJkGzNYS7brkYIzVtoKP8WRQDrW15zTIFXISspWVOQqEHZIWy5F3B3zo60PFXsEOXd9cd2wdsnTDuPg/s640/5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El dueño de la finca nos aconsejó alternar el agua caliente de
la poza con el agua fría del río. Un gratificante baño en un bonito paraje.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De vuelta contemplamos una bonita imagen del río Caldera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos por la Panamericana hacia el oeste. Unos
kilómetros después nos desviamos hacia la playa de Las Lajas en el Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos a mediados de octubre, el mes más lluvioso, y algunas
zonas de la carretera junto a la costa están completamente inundadas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por la mañana, después del desayuno, la mar comienza a
alejarse dejando una planicie de arena húmeda que se confunde con el horizonte.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos dirección a Ciudad de Panamá y paramos en Santiago de
Veraguas que se fundó en el siglo XVII. Esperábamos encontrar una vieja ciudad
colonial, pero aquí nada queda de su histórico pasado, la única foto que
pudimos tomar fue de la catedral de Santiago Apóstol.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos al sur la península de Azuero y paramos de nuevo junto
al mar en Playa Blanca, donde la brisa atenúa el calor húmedo del trópico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un buen lugar para pasar unos días junto al mar es el
restaurante Pipa Beach en el Farallón, donde los viajeros siempre son bien
recibidos. Aquí coincidimos con dos jóvenes viajeras argentinas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos bajo la influencia del turismo de la ciudad de Panamá
a tan solo 120 km. Ya no son playas solitarias, están invadidas por los grandes
hoteles y resort.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los barcos casi siempre mueren en tierra, su principal
enemigo. Qué pena nos da, ¿cuantos mares habrá surcado?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia la capital nos desviamos a Punta Chame, una
lengua de arena que se adentra en el mar varios kilómetros. Desde ella
divisamos a lo lejos la ciudad de Panamá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El domingo por la mañana, como ya es nuestra costumbre,
entramos en la ciudad por el mítico Puente de las Américas, donde se junta el
océano Atlántico con el Pacifico y divide América del norte con la del sur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un emocionado recuerdo nos lleva 15 años atrás cuando lo cruzábamos
por primera vez con nuestro catamarán Calcetines y nuestra perra Luna, hacia el
incierto e inmenso Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hoy se celebra el día del cáncer y las avenidas junto al paseo
marítimo están cerradas al tráfico, una magnífica oportunidad para pasear y
conocer la ciudad sin el estrés, ruido y contaminación de la circulación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El ambiente es festivo, con charangas, bailes y actuaciones
musicales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto a la avenida Balboa se alza la estatua de Vasco Núñez de
Balboa, primer europeo en divisar el Océano Pacifico, que<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>llamo Mar del Sur. Muy cerca nos estacionamos
en un parking vigilado por la policía. (N8 58 12.2 W79 31 46.8)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al caer la noche, tanto la ciudad moderna como la antigua se transforman,
ofreciendo su distinta imagen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La ciudad antigua iluminada revive con sus numerosos
restaurantes y bares.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos la ciudad y nos dirigimos al norte, a Colon. Donde
hemos quedado con un agente de aduanas para empezar a preparar los trámites
para mandar el camión a Colombia en barco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de pasar por la moderna y cuidada Ciudad de Panamá,
nos quedamos horrorizados ante la vista que ofrece Colon, una ciudad sucia,
ruinosa y decadente. Además una de las más peligrosas de Panamá.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El centro comercial Colon 2000 es el único sitio donde pasar
la noche con seguridad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De aquí nos dirigimos al fuerte San Lorenzo y tenemos que
cruzar el canal en un transbordador.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Deben de ser pocas las visitas que recibe el fuerte cuando la
vegetación se está comiendo la carretera, algunas veces solo queda un estrecho túnel.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al llegar nos esperaba una manada de coatis, unos pequeños
mamíferos fáciles de reconocer por su larga cola.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este fuerte lo mando construir Felipe II en 1597 al arquitecto
italiano Bautista Antonelli.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta situado frente a la desembocadura del rio Chagres en la
costa del Atlántico y era el camino natural para llegar a la Ciudad de Panamá
en la costa del Pacifico. La mitad de este trayecto se hacía por el rio y
después se continuaba por tierra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por aquí salían los barcos cargados con las riquezas de Perú y
su importante enclave lo atestiguan los numerosos asaltos que sufrió por parte
de piratas y corsarios ingleses Francis Drake, Henry Morgan o Edward Vernon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo un sendero hasta la playa nos encontramos un
tranquilo oso hormiguero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De vuelta pasamos por las esclusas de Gatún donde los barcos
de medida Panamá entran casi arañando la esclusa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A lo largo de Centroamérica no hemos encontrado con numerosos viajeros
argentinos realizando su sueño de unir Patagonia con Alaska. Como la familia
Diaz Galido, que viajan con sus dos hijos, queriendo ser los primeros en hacer
esta travesía con un vehículo de 1960. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra siguiente parada es en el pequeño pueblo de Portobelo,
que fue el principal puerto centroamericano del imperio español de ultramar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la entrada de la bahía, en el lado oeste se encuentra el
fuerte de Santiago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto al pueblo está el fuerte de San Jerónimo, desde donde se
divisa la Real Aduana, edificio de aire renacentista del 1630.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al otro lado de la bahía, que se llega en una barca taxi, esta
la batería de San Fernando que defendía la bocana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los viejos cañones ya no apuntan a temidos piratas, ahora son
testigos de la historia ante los aventureros navegantes que esperan para cruzar
hacia el Océano Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los últimos días en Panamá los pasamos en la Guaira e Isla
Grande a unos 20 km. de Portobello.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos a finales de noviembre y como todos los años
regresaremos por unos meses a España.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Para poder salir del
país es obligatorio dejar el vehículo en un depósito de aduanas. Nosotros
elegimos el de Transbal en Chilibre por la proximidad a la ciudad de Panamá
desde donde sale nuestro vuelo. El precio de la estancia es de 1,5$ más 0,28$
de seguro por día.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de dejar el vehículo tenemos que ir a las oficinas de
Transbal en la ciudad de Panamá, donde nos dan un documento de depósito y de
allí a la oficina de aduana para sellar el pasaporte y poder salir del país.</span><span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-81680084389723400682019-05-30T08:00:00.000+02:002019-05-30T08:00:09.190+02:00Costa Rica-II.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al sur del lago Arenal se encuentra la Reserva de Monteverde.
La carretera asfaltada desaparece y se convierte en una pésima pista de tierra que
nos lleva hasta Santa Helena.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La reserva biológica del bosque nuboso de Monteverde es otro
de los lugares recomendados en la visita a este país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Varios senderos muy marcados nos llevan primero al mirador,
donde se puede ver en los días claros la costa del Caribe y del Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por otro recorrido llegamos al puente colgante, que debe ser
el más fotografiado del parque.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yendo hacia la pequeña cascada la niebla se levanto y nos
permitió ver la costa del Atlántico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Santa Helena continuamos hacia el sur descendiendo de las
montañas hacia la costa. La pista sigue siendo de tierra, pero está en mejores
condiciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ya en la costa del Pacifico cruzamos el puente de la Amistad
en la desembocadura del rio Tempisque en el Golfo de Nicoya.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las carreteras de Costa Rica son un autentico desastre, solo
las nacionales están asfaltadas y hay una mayoría de tierra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es curioso que en los parques y reservas no hayamos visto
animales y nos los encontremos en la carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Playa Carrillo es nuestro primer contacto con las playas del
Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una playa de ensueño, solitaria y sin construcciones, donde
quedarse varios días acampados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo la costa llegamos a la pequeña población de Samara.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con la marea baja las aguas del mar se retiran casi hasta el
horizonte creando una inmensa playa de arena blanca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al otro lado, la línea de cocoteros marca la frontera con la
tierra donde están algunos restaurantes y escuelas de surf.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El mar se retira tanto que casi puedes ir andando a las
cercanas islas y para dar si acaso más belleza al momento, una manada de
caballos viene a retozar por la playa. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta bonita zona de playas tampoco tiene carretera asfaltada.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y los numerosos ríos que vienen a desembocar al mar hay que
vadearlos como en esta ocasión en el rio Garza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este vadeo es habitual pero en plena época de lluvias, el río
viene muy crecido y con mucha corriente. Un lugareño que lo conocía cruzo
andando para mostrarnos el camino.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con las cortas y el bloqueo del diferencial central no tuvimos
ningún problema. En su parte más profunda tenía 1,10 m. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Al poco de pasar descarga otro pequeño diluvio anegando la
carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La pista continúa cruzando arroyos y algunos de ellos solo
tienen un puente colgante para personas o motos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El refugio de fauna silvestre de Ostional es una playa donde
vienen a desovar las tortugas marinas oliváceas, que tiene lugar entre julio y
noviembre.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un guía del parque nos comenta que unos días atrás habían
tenido una arribada de miles de tortugas. Como san tantas, al hacer sus nidos
levantan los de otras y lo que pensábamos que era un espolio de estos negros
pájaros entre<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cuervo y buitre, es en
realidad de limpieza para evitar el hedor de los huevos podridos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta costa por sus grandes olas de mar de fondo es muy
apropiada para la práctica del surf.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos por la pista sorteando ríos, unas veces por angostos
puentes y otras vadeando.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora nos dirigimos hacia el interior, pasando Santa Cruz,
bordeando el golfo de Nicoya hacia Barranca. Después cruzamos el río Grande de
Tarcoles, parada obligada para ver los cocodrilos desde el puente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde el mirador de Jaco contemplamos su bahía.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después de 315 km. llegamos de nuevo a la costa del Pacifico
en la playa de Espadilla pegada al Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este famoso parque tan recomendado no fue tampoco nada
especial. Un recorrido por un camino pavimentado, de nuevo por el bosque
nuboso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo mejor son sus playas, aunque nosotros no las disfrutamos
porque estuvo lloviendo todo el día.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo más curioso es que los animales los vimos después de
regreso a playa Espadilla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Regresamos a San Jose para dejar a nuestros invitados que
volaban de vuelta a España. Después continuamos hacia el sur por la
Panamericana, una sinuosa carretera de montaña que asciende hasta los 3.350 m.
de altitud, donde nos cayó un diluvio y la temperatura bajo hasta los 10ºC.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Después descendimos lentamente hacia la costa perseguidos por
una lluvia que no cesa, el mes de octubre es el más fuerte en precipitaciones y
los ríos llevan su máximo caudal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la playa de Dominicalito paramos unos días.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Y aunque la playa no es muy buena, con la marea baja se
transforma, dejando accesibles islotes y acantilados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Siguiendo la Panamericana, que ahora bordea la costa, nuestra
siguiente parada la haceos en playa Hermosa. Tenemos que cruzar un río para
acceder a ella y como siempre, lo exploramos primero andando.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Era sábado y también acamparon varias familias locales. Por la
mañana nos enteramos que unos ladrones les habían robado en los coches y en las
tiendas de campaña. Pensamos que nos escapamos por lo inaccesible del camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos recomendaron a 30 km. de aquí, playa Ventanas, famosa por
sus dos túneles naturales por donde la mar resopla con la marea alta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La última playa que visitamos en este país fue playa Tortuga,
donde se pueden ver a estos galápagos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los numerosos ríos que vienen a desembocar al mar es necesario
cruzarlos para poder continuar por la playa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No tuvimos la suerte de ver a las tortugas, pero con la marea
baja, quedaron al descubierto en los acantilados unas impresionantes cuevas,
unas catedrales de piedra.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia la frontera de Panamá cruzamos el río Grande
de Terraba, donde volvimos a ver cocodrilos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con otro corte de carretera por la huelga nos despedimos de
Costa Rica antes de llegar a la frontera en Paso Canoas. El impuesto de salida
del país son 8$ por persona.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas…………………………..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Costa Rica es un país pequeño de tan solo 51.900 km2, nueve
veces menor que España, pero por el contrario sus distancias por carretera se
alargan como si estuviéramos recorriendo un país mucho más extenso, debido a
sus malas carreteras, unas veces llenas de baches, otras por su trazado sinuoso
y en otras el asfalto desaparece y se convierte en una mala pista.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La mayoría de la gente que visita este país viene atraída pos
sus parques naturales, pero nosotros los encontramos muy limitados, aparte del
bosque nuboso, no tienen mucho más que ver, pues los animales también son difíciles
de encontrar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lo más interesante de este país lo encontramos en las dos
zonas de desove de las tortugas: en la costa del Caribe en Tortuguero y en el
Pacifico en Ostional.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pero sin duda lo mejor son sus playas. Las del Caribe sur
rodeadas de una vegetación exuberante o las del Pacifico que bordean la
Península de Nicoya, con sus grandes mareas que en la bajamar dejan
espectaculares playas, o las de más al sur las coquetas calas incluidas las del
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como ya hemos dicho Costa Rica es el país más caro de
Centroamérica y también el gasoil está un poco por encima de sus vecinos a 0,86
euros/litro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su moneda es el colon, 1 euro equivale a 665 colones, aunque
el dólar es admitido en todas partes. El problema lo tenemos con el cambio de
euros, ya que solo algunos bancos lo hacen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-38828795546110269292019-05-19T08:00:00.000+02:002019-05-19T08:00:01.897+02:00Costa Rica-I.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra entrada en Costa Rica, a mediados de septiembre,
coincide con una huelga general por la subida de impuestos. Por la falta de
funcionarios tardamos varias horas en pasar la frontera. Aquí no se tiene que
pagar por ningún servicio<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>salvo el
seguro del camión que es obligatorio, a nosotros nos costó 40$ para tres meses.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La cola de camiones esperando para hacer los trámites de
aduana era de varios kilómetros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nos dirigimos directamente a San Jose para recoger en el
aeropuerto a mi hija Maria y a David, que vienen a pasar unos días con
nosotros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestro recorrido por Costa Rica lo iniciamos subiendo al
volcán Barva, unas estrechas y empinadas carreteras, que se convierten en una
pista de tierra al final, nos llevan hasta los 2477 m. de altitud.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Este volcán se encuentra en el parque nacional Braulio Carrillo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un sendero por el bosque nuboso nos conduce hasta uno de los
lagos del cráter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La entrada al parque cuesta 12$ por persona y nosotros
esperábamos algo más que tres horas de recorrido por el bosque nuboso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos en plena época de lluvias y casi todos los días, por
la tarde nos cae uno de esos fuertes aguaceros del trópico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora nos dirigimos hacia el norte para visitar Tortuguero. La
carretera cruza inmensas plantaciones de plátanos, con un sistema de transporte
de las ramas por raíles, que a veces cruzan la carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por tierra se llega hasta el embarcadero de La Pavona, donde
se toma el barco para llegar al parque nacional Tortuguero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Una hora y media de un interesante recorrido por la jungla,
serpenteando por el río de La Suerte, donde pudimos ver algún cocodrilo,
algunas aves y oír el aullar de los monos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Llegando a San Francisco el río se ensancha en una estirada
laguna, que forma la barrera de arena de la costa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Anocheciendo llegamos a Tortuguero.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es una pequeña y destartalada población que vive del turismo,
atraído por las tortugas que vienen a desovar en sus playas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se organizan pequeños grupos guiados para ver el proceso de
desove a partir de las ocho de la noche. Nosotros vimos cuatro tortugas verdes,
pero está terminantemente prohibido hacer fotos. Al finalizar regresamos de
nuevo al embarcadero de la Pavona, que resulto un emocionante recorrido por el
río en plena noche.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos Tortuguero y nos dirigimos hacia las playas del norte
en la costa caribeña. La carretera es la de Puerto Limón, principal puerto de
salida de los productos de este país hacia el Atlántico y donde los piquetes de
la huelga general están haciendo más daño.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Perdimos todo un día para hacer 73 km.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El último control lo pudimos eludir desviándonos por una pista
solo apta para vehículos todo terreno.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por fin, después de las largas colas de todo un día llegamos a
las playas caribeñas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Acampamos en Playa Negra junto al mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cerca de aquí, andando se llega al Parque Nacional Cahuita.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un parque pequeño, junto al mar, con un sendero de unos 8
km. entre el bosque costero y las playas de arena blanca.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto a la entrada hay un pequeño vivero de incubación de
huevos de tortugas carey. Y a lo largo del recorrido vimos algún mono
cariblanco.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Con un variado casado, plato típico tico con arroz, fríjoles,
ensalada, plátano y carne o pescado, celebramos el cumpleaños de Ana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuamos hacia el sur a Puerto Viejo, un pequeño y
tranquilo pueblo turístico, rodeado de las mejores playas de la zona.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un último baño en la costa caribeña lo hacemos en playa
Cocles. Yendo hacia allí tenemos un inusual encuentro con un perezoso en tierra
cruzando la carretera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sus movimientos son tan lentos que hay que ayudarle a cruzar y
enseguida trepa por el árbol más cercano.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estas playas son muy frecuentadas por surfistas por sus olas,
pero para el baño hay que tener cuidado por la fuerza del mar y las corrientes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Algunos pequeños hotelitos realzan con su diseño lo idílico
del lugar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dejamos la costa del atlántico y volvemos hacia el centro del país
siempre rodeados de la exuberante vegetación o de plantaciones, como las de
piña en este caso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El pueblo La Fortuna se encuentra cerca del volcán Arenal, que
divisamos a lo lejos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A 12 km. de La Fortuna y rodeando el volcán nos dimos un baño
en una salvaje fuente termal rodeados de jungla. (N10 29 18.9 W84 43 26.3)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las carreteras son bastante malas, bacheadas, onduladas y muy
estrechas, y la mayoría de los puentes solo permiten el paso de un vehículo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El lago Arenal es el más grande de Costa Rica y se formo a
raíz de la construcción de una presa en 1973, y aunque la carretera lo bordea
bastantes kilómetros, la tupida vegetación no permite prácticamente verlo.
Demasiada carretera y curvas y casi ningún acceso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas……………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Costa Rica es un país para turistas, no para viajeros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es un parque temático al aire libre, rodeado de naturaleza,
para montar a caballo, hacer puenting, rafting, tirolina…….o pasear por la
jungla por sendas pavimentadas, acompañados por un guía que te localice con un
monocular de aumento animales o pájaros, para llevarte la foto de recuerdo en
el móvil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En este caro país, que lo llaman la Suiza Centroamericana, parece
que la única forma de salir adelante es la explotación al turista, cobrando
absolutamente por todo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-60420959579545905832019-05-08T08:00:00.000+02:002019-05-08T08:00:19.266+02:00Nicaragua.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos a mediados de septiembre, cuando la situación política
en Nicaragua está muy tensa por los graves disturbios y manifestaciones que han
costado más de 400 vidas. Decidimos cruzarla lo más rápidamente posible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Para agilizar la entrada al país es necesario solicitarlo por
Internet con una antelación de 7 días. De todas formas hay que tener paciencia
con los funcionarios que siempre se demoran un poco con los tramites. Pagamos
5$ por fumigar el camión y 12$ por persona en inmigración.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El país que encontramos no daba la imagen de las noticias que
teníamos, todo estaba tranquilo y con mucha presencia policial.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A 117 km. de la frontera llegamos a la ciudad de León y paramos
a visitarla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">León de Santiago de los Caballeros, es una de las ciudades
coloniales más monumentales de América. Fue durante 200 años, hasta 1851,
capital de Nicaragua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Numerosos palacios, iglesias, teatros y colegios sobresalen en
sus rectas y largas calles de su cuadriculada urbanización.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Junto al Parque Central se encuentra la catedral metropolitana,
barroca y neoclásica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En su amplísimo interior, cerca del altar, está enterrado
Rubén Darío, junto a un león de mármol y a los pies de San Pablo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">León también cuenta con la universidad más antigua de
Centroamérica, fundada por las cortes de Cádiz poco antes de su independencia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En sus calles encontramos un viejo mural que de nuevo, en el
siglo XXI, vuelve a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>estar vigente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos hacia el suroeste bordeando la capital Managua y nos
dirigimos a Granada, nos sorprende el buen estado en que esta la carretera y la
poca circulación que hay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la Granada nicaragüense también se lee en uno de los
azulejos de la casa de los leones “Tampoco hay en la vida nada como la pena
de ser ciego en esta Granada”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por su marcado carácter colonial es la capital turística de
Nicaragua, fundada en 1524 por el capitán español Francisco Hernández de
Córdoba.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Aunque la ciudad fue asaltada varias veces por corsarios franceses
e ingleses y también sufrió un importante incendio en 1856, la mayoría de sus
nobles edificios se han conservado.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Se encuentra a orillas del lago Nicaragua, que ellos lo
denominan el Mar Dulce, con una extensión de 8.264 km2.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La inestabilidad por la que atraviesa el país en estos
momentos es patente en sus calles vacías de turistas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Como en toda Centroamérica cualquier negocio o edificio
público está protegido por guardias de seguridad privada con ostentosas armas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El mercado ajeno a la política sigue su ritmo habitual.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">De Granada tomamos dirección sur para encontrarnos de nuevo
con las playas del Pacifico en San Juan del Sur, donde por una pista de tierra
con pronunciados desniveles de unos 10 km. llegamos a Playa Madera.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Un lugar salvaje de islotes, playas de arena, arrecifes y
acantilados, donde el mar de fondo del Pacifico arremete con su constante
violencia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ahora solitario por la escasez de turismo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">San Juan del Sur es un tranquilo pueblecito que vive de la
pesca y del turismo, situado en una bonita bahía con forma de herradura,
rodeada de colinas de espesa vegetación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde aquí solo nos separan 43 km. de la frontera con Costa
Rica, que pasamos por el puesto fronterizo de Peñas Blancas. Pagamos por
persona 1$ de impuestos municipales y 2$ de tasas de aduana.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El termino Nicaragua proviene del nombre del cacique Nicarao.
Es el país de mayor extensión de Centroamérica, con 130. 668 km2.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">No es un buen momento para hacer turismo por este país, aunque
la policía nos dice que ahora todo está tranquilo. Pero después de 400 muertos
en la revuelta, no hay nada solucionado y el país se encuentra en una calma
tensa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nicaragua estuvo gobernada por el somocismo, dictadura
socialista que gobernó con mano de hierro cometiendo numerosas arbitrariedades,
entre 1937 y 1979. Esto desemboco en una guerra civil conocida como guerra de
liberación que gano el FSLN (Frente sandinista de liberación nacional) siendo
presidente el joven Daniel Ortega hasta 1990. En el 96 se hace de nuevo con el
poder, que de una forma u otra, cambiando de partido y acusándolo de fraude
electoral, se ha mantenido hasta nuestros días.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La política de Daniel Ortega es al estilo de Maduro en
Venezuela o Evo Morales en Bolivia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tanto los que hicieron la revolución sandinista como sus
sucesores, ven alejarse de nuevo sus ambiciones democráticas por una nueva
dictadura, todo ello además agravado por la riqueza que acumula el presidente
en uno de los países más pobres de América.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3338396246977711511.post-58858985877355454622019-04-27T08:00:00.000+02:002019-04-27T08:00:07.332+02:00Honduras.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Los trámites aduaneros fueron sencillos y rápidos, atendidos
por un personal muy amable. Pagamos 3$ por persona en inmigración y 34$ por la
importación temporal del camión.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A Honduras entramos por la nacional 4 que la une con El
Salvador en la frontera de Citala, donde se extiende la cordillera Metapan
Alotepeque.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las carreteras son bastante aceptables aunque de vez en cuando
tenemos algunos tramos de tierra, en reparación o rotas por derrumbes o
avalanchas de agua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>La tilapia es un
pescado de agua dulce muy apreciado en estas regiones tan apartadas del mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos cien kilómetros de la frontera se encuentra Santa Rosa
de Copan, una pequeña ciudad de 25.000 habitantes, con varias casas históricas
y su blanca catedral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ha prosperado por su excelente café y tabaco.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>La Real Factoría de Tabaco se abrió en 1765,
hoy la empresa La Flor de Copan, encargada de la elaboración de puros, ofrece
visitas guiadas con cita previa.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Estamos a primeros de septiembre, en plena época de lluvias,
lo que ellos llaman invierno, que se extiende de junio a octubre. La
temperatura en el centro montañoso es agradable, oscilando entre 15 y 30
grados.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nuestra siguiente parada la hacemos en la ciudad de Gracias, entrando
por el fuerte de San Cristóbal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fundada en 1536 por el capitán Chávez, es una bonita ciudad
colonial. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Las iglesias, como siempre, son lo más destacado de su
arquitectura.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su bullicioso y pintoresco mercado es un lugar ideal para
abastecerse de cualquier necesidad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtiM7GACL5SyUEIDE1xWnSerTJ1ZfOhBks9Oi0ycR9IQcZEhmGEkp2I4J8_Ad6v8qWwK-3irAMUGgdvMqkT-w46A8HcgSZHQtyTxTs21TsaLlW2cCdwqV_VUgXV-22YpuwaPB8hwDaPk/s1600/18+%25281024x683%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtiM7GACL5SyUEIDE1xWnSerTJ1ZfOhBks9Oi0ycR9IQcZEhmGEkp2I4J8_Ad6v8qWwK-3irAMUGgdvMqkT-w46A8HcgSZHQtyTxTs21TsaLlW2cCdwqV_VUgXV-22YpuwaPB8hwDaPk/s640/18+%25281024x683%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A unos 5 km. del pueblo se encuentran las aguas termales de
Gracias, un buen lugar para relajarse y darse un baño. (N14 33 32.5 W88 34 15.0)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Seguimos hacia el este por la zona montañosa del centro, donde
la carreta se eleva hasta los 2000 m. de altura. Nuestro siguiente destino es
la ciudad de Comayagua.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es la ciudad colonial más importante de Honduras y fue
declarada monumento nacional en 1972. Fundada por el conquistador de Yucatán
Francisco Montejo a principios del siglo XVI.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la catedral destaca su macizo y cuadrado campanario, donde
se encuentra el reloj que dono Felipe II,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>que provenía de la Alhambra de Granada. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Es uno de los más antiguos de América y el relojero tiene que
subir todos los días a darle cuerda.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La ciudad se transforma por la noche con su tenue iluminación,
que invita a pasear o a sentarse en sus terrazas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Continuando hacia el sureste bordeamos la capital Tegucigalpa,
en medio de un valle, rodeada de colinas. Las capitales casi siempre procuramos
evitarlas sabiendo que tienen algunas cosas buenas pero también lo peor de cada
nación.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Preferimos parar en el pequeño pueblo de Ojojona a 33 km. más
al sur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Fundado en 1579, todavía conserva la arquitectura tradicional
o colonial, con sus tejados de teja de cañón, rodeado por un bosque de pinos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Varias tiendas de artesanía venden una cerámica de llamativos
colores.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Honduras tiene una pequeña salida al océano en el Golfo de
Fonseca. No queríamos salir del país sin conocer esa costa del Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Por el camino nos recomiendan como mejor opción<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>la playa del Edén, cerca de Cedeño.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Casi toda la costa está dominada por el manglar, que además
recoge toda la suciedad que arrojan a los ríos y al mar sus vecinos. No
habíamos visto un agua tan sucia en nuestra vida.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Esta suciedad no impide la pesca y los niños bajan a la
playa a recolectar coquillas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">El Edén es una zona lacustre donde las aguas dulces se
encuentran con el océano en un laberinto de lenguas de arena y lagunas, donde
pescan miles de pelícanos marrones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A pesar de la suciedad reinante los lugareños se acercan hasta
aquí a los numerosos chiringuitos que ofrecen distintos platos de pescado y una
siesta en las hamacas a la orilla del mar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">La última noche en Honduras la pasamos en el paso fronterizo
de Guasaule.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Mapas del recorrido.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Filopensamientos y otras cosas………..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Honduras tiene una
extensión de 112.500 km2, la quinta parte de España y es uno de los países más
montañosos de Centroamérica.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cristóbal Colon, en su cuarto viaje, llego a sus islas en 1502
y unos días después sus hombres desembarcaron en Puerto Castilla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Centroamérica se independizo de España en 1821, uniéndose al
imperio de Méjico que se extendía desde el río Oregón y Colorado hasta Panamá.
En 1838 consigue su propia independencia como país.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Desde que España se marcho de Centroamérica los Estados Unidos
consideraron a este istmo como su patio trasero, comenzando a comprar tierras y
más tierras. El suelo hondureño es muy apropiado para el cultivo del plátano.
De aquí el termino república bananera ya que la United Fruit Company llegó a
tener más poder que el propio gobierno, controlando puertos, muelles y
plantaciones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">En la actualidad Honduras es un país tranquilo con una
democracia relativamente estable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Comic Sans MS"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Su moneda es el lempure y su cambio está a 28,15 por euro. El
precio del gasoil es de 0,74 euros/litro.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Calceteamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08396254915734111551noreply@blogger.com0